Side by Side Comparison of: Rosewill vs Cooler Master vs Seagate

I picked up two of these keyboards on a whim at a deep discount (about 30 bucks each). I've been using them at home and at the office and have been highly satisfied with their performance. The orange rubber textured WASD and directional gaming keys that you can switch in and out are actually quite enjoyable to use, particularly for games that have some sort of double tap to dodge/evade mechanic. Switching between the keysets is pretty straightforward with the provided keygrabber thing.A few of my coworkers use DAS Keyboards with Cherry MX blue switches. They're nice keyboards but I'm simply too cheap to spend that much on a keyboard. This keyboard offers a very comparable experience at a fraction of the price. I lucked out.One of the reviews complained about the size of the backspace key. If you're used to the old style IBM huge-clicky-clacky-keyboards (my previous keyboard of chocie) then there will be no adjustments needed.If I had to pick a gripe, it would be the obnoxiously bright blue LED light above the numpad. It's a very minor gripe though, as I am already accustomed to using black electrical tape to cover up unneeded or unwanted lighting on my computer equipment.Overall I am currently very happy with this purchase and if I had to repurchase these keyboards I likely would, especially if they were on sale again. Hope this review helps someone.

Based on the other reviews on this keyboard, I think I got lucky and got a good one.This is my second mechanical keyboard, my primary one being a Thermaltake Poseidon Z w/ Cherry MX Blue switches. This keyboard feels very good for typing, and I'm using it in a semi-loud office environment so I'm not too worried about the noise. All the keys seem to be working well with no issues at all. The orange rubberized "gaming keys" are a nice touch, but just feel weird to keep on when doing normal typing.The overall build quality does feel a bit cheap, but feels very solid compared to a standard keyboard. For $30 there isn't much to complain about this keyboard. If this keyboard was still in the $50+ range, I'd definitely only rate it 3 or 4 stars, but since it is $30, it is definitely worth 5 stars.The only issue I've had with this keyboard was that my "F9" key is just another "9 (" key, but it's not too big of a deal as it still works as an F9 key, I've sent an email to rosewill support and hopefully they'll be sending me the correct key cap.

This keyboard is significantly more conducive to productivity than is a membrane keyboard. I would prefer a double-wide backspace key. I found the included special keys useful to drop the profile of the windows and contextual keys on the right side of the space bar to avoid hitting the context menu on occasion when I press shift. But these minor off-notes are nothing compared to the absolutely reliable key-press enabling me to nearly double my typing speed. Touch-typers and Dvorak users (who are already, presumably, nuts over productivity) will find that this keyboard is a must.

I love this keyboard. I'm typing on it now after months of owning it. It's the second one I bought. My first one (bought elsewhere) died after about a year - the usb-mini port on the keyboard went bad due to being pushed up against my digital piano too long. This was disappointing because it didn't seem loose or anything but it was definitely a bad port. I *accidentally* bought the same keyboard not noticing it in a big amazon cart, so I was upset when it came... but after opening it up, I noticed that the USB cable is now hard-wired! I believe this is a MUCH better design, so I am so happy I ended up with a new and improved one of these. If you are buying this from Amazon, I would say you have nothing to worry about. I really like Red and Black Cherry MX switches. This is nice. This even came with the rubber keys that I had to buy separately on the first one. They really tout the laser printed key lettering - LOL my left CTRL key was worn bare in like 2 days - no lie. But I've been typing for 30 years now so I couldn't care less about that detail. Gives the keyboard character.

I love this keyboard it makes such lovely clicking noises as I type. The springiness of the keys just flings my fingers back into the air ready for more words! It had other features but I have no idea what they are. Evidently it can repel ghosts? And you can reprogram keys? I guess but I just type with it and if that's what you need then get this bad boy it's a perfect intro mechanical keyboard.

Without the frills of a run-of-the-mill gaming keyboard, this Rosewill keyboard delivers the responsiveness and clicky feeling of just about any high-end keyboard. The cherry blue mechanical feel is amazing, and the response time is optimal for reactionary video games. I didn't use the orange replacement keys with grip, so I can't comment on the functionality of those, yet I simply did not find them necessary. If you don't need a lit keyboard or any frills, and you are content with a sleek looking and feeling mechanical keyboard, this Rosewill RK-6000 will deliver in terms of everything you will want out of a mechanical gaming keyboard for half the price of the highly coveted Razor ones.

I just got this thing installed and what a huge difference a good fan makes on a CPU. The OEM fan on my computer was going out and the CPU was shutting down, as it was hitting 85 degrees Celsius. The kill switch would engage and shut down the CPU to prevent harm. Fan was burnt out and just not operating well.Bought and installed this one today, while playing Overwatch on max settings on everything, it ran at 29 degrees Celsius. Major improvement on all sides. Computer is running better and I don't have to worry about the CPU burning out on me from overheating.Side Note: This thing is huge! I have a bigger case and it barely fits in there. Be warned, if you have a smaller case, this is not gonna fit very well.

Replaced the stock cooler with the Hyper T2 in my Asus M52BC (FX-8310). Bought some Arctic Silver paste and used that. Total install took maybe 10 minutes: just clip it in. Stock cooler was running 125F at idle with the CPU clocked at a constant 4 Ghz. The Hyper T2 dropped the temps to about 80F at idle: just about room temp! The only time the fan even ramps up past its lowest speed is under 100% load on all 8 cores and then it only jumps up to maybe 1700 RPM: lowest/idle speed is 1125 RPM. Highest I've seen it under stress testing is about 128F before the fan kicks up in speed: then temp comes back down. Couldn't be happier. More than enough cooling for 4 Ghz and I don't really want liquid inside my case so didn't want liquid cooling.

As far as air cpu cooling this is the best bang for your buck. Keeps my toasty AMD CPU at a cool temp. You would be hard pressed to find a better cooler for the price. Has been a go to for the whole pc community for a reason... it works. As always i would recommend a higher quality thermal paste than what is provided but def worth it.

bought this to replace my Stock AMD CPU cooling fan. it would not keep the APU CPU A 6800 100w cool enough or if I opened a photo software it would get past 60c. Installed on to my Asus F2A85-V PRO mobo the cut out fits over the memory modules perfect. Now my CPU temperature is 35c when I open up the photo software it only goes up to 37c and very quite now the fans are not running at full speed anymore I do mean all fans side, front and rear fans. I installed the cooling fan on this cooler so it would push through the cooler fins it allows you to mount it either way push or pull.

WHAT AN IMPROVEMENT!I am using this on an i7-4790k in a Cooler Master Storm Scout 2 on an ASUS Hero VII, and the only thing that was close to being an issue is that in order to put the fan on or take it off I need to remove the RAM stick in the first slot. Other than that non-issue everything about it is great. I was debating about getting an all in one liquid cooler like the Corsair H80i, but decided on this because of the price and I am not regretting it at all. It is also much quieter (when not maxed out) than the Intel cooler.Stock Intel Cooler Temps(@ 4.2GHz):Idle 42 CGaming 68 CHyper 212 EVO (@4.4GHz)Idle 30 CLight Use 35 CGaming 60 CEncoding 1080p 75 CTo me all of those are perfect I am still under the 80 C safety mark in everything I do. If I build a new PC anytime soon, as long as it has the right socket one of these will be on it. For $28 it is absolutely phenomenal. I recommend this to anyone who is doing a light overclock and is unwilling to sell their kidneys.UPDATE: I am currently running the i7-4790k at 4.7GHz. It is summer and I am still getting great temperatures. I kind of wish it was just a bit better so I could get it to 5.0 GHz and keep safe temps but again $28 makes it unbeatable.

It was time to build myself a new PC and switch back to PC gaming from consoles, especially with the launching of next gen consoles. The machine will also be used for graphic design, rendering and encoding. Purchased the AMD FX-8350 with the intent of not overclocking it for now and stick with its stock heat sink and fan. For the first few weeks, the stock cooling ramped up on the RPM for fan speed when I played most games (ie. Bioshock: Infinite, Crysis 3, etc.), and this included when encoding video. It was unbelievably loud to where I began to fear something was not right. Built an identical system for the girlfriend but with a different case which included more case fans. Hers was not as loud (though at times I could hear the fan speed up but not as often). I purchased a few 120mm case fans and installed them. It was not much help. Since the initial build I was looking at this Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus based on the reviews. After the first few weeks of dealing with the noise I purchased the EVO version per the PLUS being discontinued or out of stock.This was my first time switching cooling systems per always using stock for every build I put together. The instructions were easy to read and it was separated depending on what type of processor you had. Still not 100% confident I YouTubed a video tutorial based on the type of processor I had and followed it step by step. It did take me about 1 - 2 hours to switch it completely over (again, due to not wanting to make any mistakes).This cooler only comes with one fan but includes the additional clips to attach another 120mm fan. Also, this heat sink is huge! I've seen pictures online and knew it was bigger than stock but didn't realize it was a lot bigger. I had to take out the top two 120mm case fans due to the case not having enough room but did place one of them as the second fan on this cooler and set it up to where the airflow goes through the heat sink for better cooling.I turned on my system for the first time after installing this. It was whisper quiet. Loaded some games, rendered, encoded. Quiet. The fans did not even need to ramp up. I placed my hand a few inches from the back of the case where there's a fan pulling air out and could feel warm air coming out (which is what it's suppose to be). Read the temperatures within the BIOS and within Windows. It was extremely cool. This thing is beautiful and definitely worth the low price to keep things quiet.

My enterprising son decided to build his own gaming computer. He went online, found all the parts he needed and we proceeded to order them. This product has held up to daily game playing and was easy to install for a 12 year old.

This HDD is great! I've used it to hold games, my OS, and other information over the years. No mechanical failures to note and it still passes the S.M.A.R.T. test despite countless reading and writing on the platter. Great product even though it's the "old model"

I bought one of these Seagate 1TB drives years ago for my XP computer. Over the years, as I've upgraded to Windows 7, Windows 10 and Ubuntu (Linux), I have installed the operating systems on a new Seagate 1TB drive each time. Since some of the older software will not work on the new operating systems, I have a 51/4" hot swap drive bay for the 31/2" hard drives. This provides me the option of running the different operating systems on the same PC. I could have upgraded to a newer version of the Seagate drive, but this model has been extremely reliable. It suites my purposes, and as the old adage goes ..., "If it ain't broke don't fix it".

Easy to install right out of the box. Plug and Play, was recognized right away. haven't had any problems in the time I've had this drive in operation. Very pleased so far.Seagate was the going drive even in the early 1980's. Long before Western Digital came along. I prefer Seagate over WD because of their long years of experience with Hard Drives and reliability. I have had too many WD drive fail on me. Fast Writes & Reads (176mb/184mb)- 2X1TB Raid 0 Performance (340mb/380mb)- Affordable- Reliable BrandOther Thoughts: Very impressed with the performance of this drives. It's amazing how much hard drives have improved over the years.I ran this on Raid 0 on a Mac Pro with a SATA II Interface and was surprised at the read and write performance.Now obviously an SSD is still going to be faster in many respects, but I honesty, I'm super happy I chose this over an SSD simply because of the storage space.I've owned an SSD, just so everyone knows. So I'm aware of the amazing speeds, but for those who are price conscious and need more storage this is a great alternative.Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive (ST1000DM003)

It's a 1TB hard drive. Not much more to say.It's fast and reliable so far - grabbed 2 of these for my video rendering server and they're holding up quite well.Quiet and thin, since they're only 1TB.Great value for the price.

Seagate has been my goto hard drive choice for 20+ years. I've never had a failure, though it could happen tomorrow so I do back up regularly. But my backup is to external hard drives which are themselves Seagate. It is not that I haven't used other brands; especially Maxtor, Western Digital, Hitachi. The only other brand with which I've never had a failure is the Hitachi.I should add that Seagate bought Maxtor some years ago, but my failure drives were prior to that. I did have a failed WD drive just a couple months ago. That computer had four drives and all had operated flawlessly for four years. This Seagate is the replacement for that one (Though I put them all in a new, much faster computer.)

Well here's an update after using the keyboard for some time. Durability: It's alright. I spilled some soda on it and it actually survived...i was impressed. It can take a 94-100 WPM beating from me as well. Now, my only issues thus far are the keys are way too flimsy. You're gonna accidentally press some keys if you're not careful. Makes for a lot of typing errors. Another thing is that the space bar completely killed itself...It doesn't even work on the left side of they now, which is what you typically press while gaming as the left side of the space bar is more easily accessible by the side of your thumb when playing games with a WASD configuration.___________Certainly an okay keyboard.:) For 30 bucks it's okay.Pros:* Tactile switches like those who like mechanical keyboards are used to* cheapCons:Bulkycheap-feeling keys...feel very fragiletall keysnot much push back in the response of the keys. You want a little push back so it doesn't feel like your pummeling the thing.The backspace bar...i should have paid attention to what that looked like before buying. It's just a tiny arrow <-- orientation instead of the full key and the word "backspace" and dear god is it annoying.

The original keyboard I received had two intermittently defective keys, the "G" and "H" keys. Other reviewers have also noted that the "G" key did not work so there might be a flaw in the keyboard design - just an assumption. Aside from that first issue, Amazon's outstanding exchange procedures got me a replacement keyboard in no time. This replacement keyboard does not appear to have any defective keys, but I've only had it for one day so time will tell.I do not game as much as I used to so I didn't see the need to pay $100 or more on a gaming mechanical keyboard, I just wanted something better to type on. Aesthetically, the keyboard is very basic in appearance so if you are looking for backlit keys, a metric Jesus ton of additional keys, fancy logos, metal keys, and dvd player - look elsewhere. Keyboard construction is decent; while pretty thick, I can still flex the keyboard easily but it does not feel considerably flimsy either. Think of it as constructed as well as an OEM keyboard but not as stout as higher end mechanical keyboard back plates. The key caps are plastic and have very minimal texture but they are concaved a good amount to feel great on your fingertips. The keys do not bottom out has solid as higher end mechanical keyboards but not mushy either. The keyboard is a true mechanical keyboard in the sense that it uses mechanical switches. They key presses generate a satisfactory audible click and tactical response, the tone of the click is lower then say a Razer keyboard. While the higher pitch click is more satisfying, these switches will be easier on your ears and to those around you. Force required to achieve a key press is average as well as the distance to bottoming out. They keys themselves have a decent amount of play in them. While it does not appear to effect my typing, it does change amount of force required to depress a key if struck on the corner. Included in the package are a key puller and replacement bright orange rubberized WASD and arrow keys. While the replacement keys offer a ton more traction and a nice feel - they look extremely out of place like it was an afterthought. However, the stark contrast of the keys bright a little bit of character to the bland keyboard. I've replaced my arrow keys with the rubberized ones but keeping the WASD rubber keys throw me off when typing normally and not gaming. To add to the inconstancy when typing normally, the rubberized keys are shorter than the other keys. One of my biggest gripes about this keyboard.....is the single key backspace. I HATE single key backspaces. It instead has the large L shaped enter key which to me has never offered an advantage.I have not used the software extensively, but it does seem pretty powerful. While the keyboard lacks dedicated macro keys, pretty much every key on the keyboard can be re-programmed to perform a task. For example I set the software to open the Windows calculator and Chrome on keys I rarely ever use. The software has different profiles as well that can be task dependent. The cord is braided and the USB connector appears to be gold plated - overall the cord feels quality.Overall, it's hard to beat this keyboard for the price point -provided you test the keys first before your exchange period ends. I suggest you find an online typing test to ensure the keys work consistently as my first defective keyboard only failed intermittently. So far, I've typed this entire review without any apparent issues. I've knocked a star off the review due to the QA check based off the fact that I am not the only one who had defective keys (The same keys for that matter) and for the fact that it has a small backspace key.

Rosewill's RK-6000 Striker is a great budget mechanical. Despite the numerous complaints about the Striker, I enjoyed using the Striker, not so much as a gaming keyboard, but as a typing keyboard. Rosewill bills this as a gaming keyboard and includes some macro software and rubberized replacement keycaps, but the switches used are (mostly) clicky and tactile and make for a great typing experience.The Striker is an all plastic build, and is quite flexible. No steel backplates reinforcing the Striker, and each keycap is ABS with Rosewill being kind enough to throw in some rubberized orange keycaps with a keycap puller. Included is a WASD and arrow key replacements, and the texture is very low profile and bumpy. Strangely the replacement keycaps have their text at the bottom of the key instead of the top, like the black ABS. I appreciate replacement keycaps, and these are a good quality. The rubberized keycaps don't really fit the personailty of the keyboard however, and seems like a thinly veiled attempt to make this keyboard more "gamey." The shift and space bar also use a Costar style stabilizers, ungreased, but uses awkward retaining tabs that snap out of the keyboard and keycaps. I almost lost one taking it apart. There are two flip up plastic flaps as feet, with 4 small rubberized feet. The flip up flaps are not rubberized. The cord is braided leading to a gold plated USB connector after a ferrite core. There are cable routing channels underneith, but don't sit very securely in the channels. The layout is very unconventional. There is a large reverse L shaped Enter key, with the left slash key next to the very small backspace key. The Ctrl keys are also different sizes, with the right being as big as a regular key. There is 6KRO that was verified with Microsofts anti-ghosting software.Off the bat, the Stiker looks like a vintage keyboard with large bezels, and Rosewill's Coke script logo emblazoned above the modifier LED's. Pulling off the keycaps reveals a throwback looking switch in the form of a knockoff Alps switch. I could not find any information about who makes the switches, but their quality is really hit or miss. Colored blue similar to Cherry's MX Blue switch, the switches click and have tactile feedback much like Cherry's Blue too. Problem is the switches click is hit or miss, not always making an audible click. Going over every switch slowly, I got an audible click out of every press, but typing quickly sometimes the key would not make a click. I could still feel the bump, but the switches feel much cheaper than a Cherry Blue. They are also extremely lightweight feeling, despite Rosewill's rating of 50g. Rosewill guarantees 20 million depresses, 30 million less than a Cherry but a good 19 million more than a membrane. Rosewill also threw in some macro software, which also doesn't fit the keyboard. There is no onboard memory, and since they keyboard doesn't have media keys or Win key lockout, the only way to implement these features is using the software. The software does allow for 10 profiles, but there is no easy way to switch profiles midgame. The software is also clunky and looks like it was developed in the early 90's.It seems like I've bashed this keyboard but what it really does do great is typing. The tactile bump and click feels a million times better than a membrane and allowed for 91 WPM with a 0% error rate on typeracer.com. If it weren't so noisy I'd love to bring this keyboard to work. It is not a great gaming keyboard, and a linear Cherry Red style switch is best for gaming, and it is hard to double tap, but that doesn't mean everyone will hate gaming on this keyboard. I played some Far Cry with no problems, but Unreal Tournament was not as good of an experience. At $49 at the time I bought this and a lowly $39 at the time of writing this review, the Striker is a steal. If you want a great typing keyboard with casual gaming to go along, the Striker is an awesome keyboard.Pros: Great for typing, blue Apls clones are clicky and tactile, looks like a vintage keyboard, 20 million clicks are a lot higher than any membrane keyboard, included replacement rubber keycaps, awesome price.Cons: Not as high qualityas a lot of other mechanicals, unusual layout that takes time to adjust to, awkward software.

I love clicky keyboards , this has a very similar feel, its close very close to the feel from an IBM M model keyboard, however the keys are not nearly as stout. They also seem to have a slight wiggle to them. However for the cost compared to all the other cheaper mechanical models I have tried from Amazon this one so far has been the best feeling for the cost. It's NOT an IBM M and its NOT Cherry-MX Blue keys.There isn't a springy feeling and it doesn't have the positive click , but there is a clacking you get when using it and the keys feel good other than the little big of wiggle you feel from them. This is still a very good keyboard. I am a very heavy user and I type all day, so far this unit has not had any problems. If you want a good mechanical keyboard but you don't want to spend over $100 then this is the one for you.If your looking for the IBM M / Cherry MX blue experience ( as I was) then this model will probably disappoint you. Even though I was disappointed that it didn't feel like the MX blue keys, I have grown to love this keyboard. My typing speed speed has went up and my error rate has went down.

Pros: Cheap mechanical keyboard, good key action, programmable software, easy to take off keys with included key removerCons: The backspace is a bit too small for me as it is not the standard ~ 2 letter key length (it is a single letter key size)Overall, not a bad buy for someone who likes a good tactile and audible response to their key presses

I've used several more expensive Gaming keyboards in the past at various LAN events, however as a student living off Ramen they don't quite fit my budget. This keyboard however despite being 1/3 the price performs just as efficiently as any higher end product I've played with. The response time is as fast as I need for CS:GO and League of Legends and has a smooth feel to each stroke. It seems like the only thing you're giving up is the light up key's and some USB ports on the side which I've never found much use for. The rubber keys it comes with are awesome for anyone who plays at lot of FPS's, they have little nubs that grip your finger tips and seems to give me, or at least makes it feel like I have a better sense of control. Definitely worth picking up if you're not looking to spend hundreds on a keyboard.

My Overclocked i7-2700k has the ability to overpower this if I boost it past 4.6GHZ. And what's interesting is that the radiator fins remain tepid to the touch even while under heavy load, while the CPU reports a temperature of 72C. That seems to indicate that the heat pipes aren't carrying enough of the warmth to the fins where the fan can blow the heat away. Next time around I'll either go with a 6-pipe model, or with water cooling.Nevertheless, these are immensely popular among less-serious overclockers, and it works quite a lot better than the stock cooling fan.Installation is tricky, and best done with nothing else in the case, so there's room to work (or with the motherboard removed from the case). I noticed that no matter how tight the thing is bolted on, there's a tendency for it to shift while the thermal paste is fresh, if I nudge the cooler. I guess this doesn't really matter, though it startled me the first time it happened.

I have been building my own computers for 35 years now. I recently put an AMD FX-8370 Cpu on an Asus 970 Gaming/Aura motherboard. The instructions for installation were horribly small and incomplete. It took me several hours to study the parts and figure out how to install this. I had to watch several YouTube's, poorly done, to get the idea. Once I got the nuts figured out on both sides of the mb, the rest was a breeze. I fault the manufacturer for lousy diagrams printed so I had to read them with a magnifying glass. This was the most difficult heat_sink/fan I have ever installed because of the lousy documentation. They also need to offer replacement fans so that both sides of the cooler have a fan, not just one side. But the good news is...and I installed two additional 120 mm fans blowing around the Cpu and memory (yes...I did some modding)...My UEFI/BIOS was reading 38 -39 degrees on the CPU after a 15 minute warm up period. So the cooler is a good one. I kept reading other people getting 48 -55 C degrees. I think the additional 120 mm fans blowing directly on the CPU cooler and RAM have helped to drop that to my reported level. My advice is to check your case and ensure you have a video card that is short and allows for a 120mm fan attached to the hard disk cage. This fan can can be attached with some cheap 20 guage electronic wire and plugged into a spare 3 pin fan header. My mod works flawlessly. I am impressed with the cooling power of this heatsink/fan but I am somewhat pissed about the lousy diagrams and instructions. I think it was worth the hassle.

My stock cooler passed on my AMD 6300 after one year of intense gaming. I was planning on over-clocking with water but then changed my mind. The processor never had any problems whatsoever doing my bidding and only once during the OS install did I ever hear the fan go into overdrive.My rig: AMD 6300 AM3+ CPUAsus ROG Crosshair Formula Z Mobo64 Gb G-Skill Trident RAMNvidia GT 970 SSC FTW GPUCorsair 850 AGX PSUThis cooler is great at keeping temps down. The instructions though are misleading on the Socket AM3. They specify the short stand-offs (labeled clearly as "C")in the pictures. This is impossible as the correct standoffs (labelled "G") have a filet ground off of the threaded part which attaches through the Mono to the provided back plate. The back plate holes have a flat which stops the stand-off from turning while tightening. Just remember: If AM3,use stand-off G. This cooler is great,i have a mind to add this one to all my AMD machines in the near future.

It does cool my amd fx-8350 down by around 10c but I must say it is an absolute pain to install, by far the most rage inducing part of my build. One of the mounting screws simply wouldn't catch to the point that I thought it was stripped, so I had to un screw the other 3 screws (after I already applied the thermal paste) and the mount that wasn't catching and try screwing it directly while holding it, it did end up screwing so I ended up re applying the paste and carefully screw each screw in ever so slightly and finally installed it... really not looking forward to re applying fresh paste in about 2 years lol.Overall I would still buy this product again as it does work as intended.

it's a good cooler for older cpus imo, i used it for an athlon 860k build and it was more then enough, got a stable 4.2 out of the cpu and it runs cool, under 60c on prime95. but my house is kinda chilly, and it's a modest overclock.It was bigger then i expected because of how small the T2 is, so i can't use my side panel, it's pretty much the same size as the 212 EVO and the EVO does indeed cool better, so if you have an older cpu get one if the sale is right, but other then that if you have the space for this cooler spend the extra 10 bucks and get higher oc head room with the evo, they are the same height.

I'm going to start with the things I didn't like.The instructions suck. They tell you to put thermal paste on your CPU before mounting the bracket that goes behind the motherboard. Due to the vague illustrations, I did not realize it needed a bracket behind the motherboard, when I was skimming the instructions. Simply put, I ended up having to put thermal paste on it twice because it's impossible to take a motherboard out of your case, attach the mounting bracket and put the motherboard back in place without contaminating the thermal paste. Even a single finger print or eye lash or piece of dust is enough to contaminate it and have an impact on the performance of your heat sink.Another thing I didn't like was the tool used for tightening on the nuts for the bracket. I tried using it but ended up using a wrench instead.Finally, I find the heat sink isn't exactly what I'd call secure. Even after tightening it down and making sure I had everything properly lined up, the whole thing will still twist a little bit. It's noticeable when you're trying to re-attach the fan.I've seen other reviews saying they ended up with mounting parts that were defective. Fortunately, I did not have this problem.What do I recommend buying before attempting this?It comes with its own thermal paste but you could always buy better. I went with some Arctic Silver 5, like most people. You'll also want some lint free wipes (coffee filters work but I do not recommend them because they're a bit stiff and tend to cause scratches; I used PEC PAD wipes sold here on Amazon that I bought for cleaning photos and negatives) and either rubbing alcohol (at least 90% but 99% is preferred; can usually find at least 91% at Walmart and most stores) or one of those cleaner kits. Also, if you don't have a small wrench set, you might want to get one, unless you plan to rely on the tool included in the kit. You definitely need a screw driver but most people would know this already.So, how do you put this thing on?Be sure to consult the instructions for each step. Also, before you do anything, take the heat sink and fan and verify you have enough clearance for it on your motherboard and in your case. This heat sink is rather large. There is a risk of it crowding a RAM slot or being too tall to even fit in your case.The first thing you should do is attach the bracket to your motherboard as per the instructions for your CPU. If you've already mounted your motherboard to your case, you will have to take it out. I used a wrench because I didn't have enough space to flip it completely on its back and use the included tool.Detach the fan from the heat sink.After you do that, put the X shaped bracket through the gap behind where the heat sink makes contact with the CPU. Keep the adhesive strip on for now. Test and make sure the X bracket matches up with the mount points you attached to your motherboard. Once you confirm you have it correctly adjusted, place your CPU in the socket (if you haven't already) and secure it.Clean the CPU cap (the part where the heat sink will connect with the CPU; use a lint free wipe and the alcohol or cleaner solution) and place thermal paste in accordance with the instructions for your thermal paste. If your thermal paste lacks instructions, the idea is to have just enough paste covering the part of the cap directly above the core(s) for your CPU. If you can't find specific directions on google, you could try putting a small plus sign of paste in the middle. To get the appropriate amount of paste, you need only an amount equal to a single line covering about 50% of the length of the CPU cap. So, if you do a plus sign, it only needs to be about 25% of the length of the cap. If your CPU doesn't have a cap, just place a rice sized dot in the center of each core. Again, most CPUs have instructions for this online.Once you've done that, take the adhesive strip off of the heat sink. I recommend cleaning the spot you took the adhesive off of (again, using a lint free wipe and cleaning solution) but it's not absolutely necessary. If you want to confirm whether you put enough or too much paste on, you can place the heat sink against the CPU, apply some pressure (just enough to get the paste to spread) and twist the heat sink a little each way. If you pull it up and the paste is going over the edge, you have too much and should use a lint free wipe to clean the excess along the edges. There should be at least enough to cover a circular area over all cores.You should now carefully line up the brackets and orient your heat sink. Proceed with lightly screwing in each screw. Once you've got all 4 screws started, go around and tighten them all down.Finally, reattach the fan, plug it in and you're done.So, what did I like about this?Once I finished putting it on, it lowered my idle temps quite a bit (down to about 27 C idle and about 48 C under load with the core temps topping out around 63 C under load) and it fixed the overheating problem I was having with my stock heat sink. Supposedly, over time the temps will get better as my thermal paste settles but I don't expect a huge difference. The fan hasn't noticeably raised the noise level in my PC, which is fairly quiet. I had a little trouble keeping the fan from touching the heat spreader on the closest RAM stick but I managed to wiggle in a tiny gap. The top of the heat sink comes really close to the other side of my case but there is a gap there. Overall, I'd say I'm satisfied.When I first put my stock heat sink on, it did a fair job (but not great since even a small overclock caused it to overheat) at keeping the CPU cool. However, about 3.5 years later my idle temps had nearly doubled and games were starting to make it overheat. I had a choice to make. I could either clean off my stock heat sink and CPU and put on new thermal paste or I could buy a new heat sink. I decided that if I was going through that much trouble, I might as well invest in a good heat sink. This heat sink is compatible with a large range of CPUs. Furthermore, I don't plan to stop using my i5-3570K any time soon. So, even given the age of the CPU, I think I'll get my money back out of the heat sink. I'm wishing I hadn't been lazy and bought this heat sink back when I initially put this PC together.For anyone curious, these are my motherboard and case.ASUS P8Z77-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel MotherboardThermaltake Armor Series VA8000BWS

Works exceptionally well! If I had realized that the SATA 3 was backwards compatible with SATA 2 controllers I would have done that instead. That aside, 1 terabyte drive for the money I spent? Good deal here. if you need a upgrade in storage on your computers and this is compatible.. I would strongly suggest it

After receiving the drive, I installed it in a refurbished computer, and installed Fedora 25 in UEFI mode with no problems. Then I checked the drive health with SMART. The surface scan found no errors, and most SMART indicators showed "new" levels. However, attribute 195 shows 4% 1 Raw_Read_Error_Rate 0x000f 072 069 006 Pre-fail Always - 17959705 9 Power_On_Hours 0x0032 100 100 000 Old_age Always - 22195 Hardware_ECC_Recovered 0x001a 004 004 000 Old_age Always - 17959705I'm not sure if this a bug, or a defective drive, but one would think that SMART would be checked automatically on the way out the factory door.

I don't see how everyone is saying this drive has crashed on them in such catastrophic ways. Since I've owned this drive, it's done nothing but work as described. Of course being a standard magnetic HDD, it's not lightning fast by any means, but that's what Solid State Drives are for. Now, I haven't used this drive for RAID or any other super intensive process, but It is used as my default data drive. I'm constantly writing, reading, and removing data from it. For the price, i'd say it's worth it and it can hold it's own against other manufacturers. You're not going to find an out of this work HDD for less, and this will more than get you by, unless as previously mentioned, your doing very intensive things with it.

I bought this at the end of last year after having my Western Digital Blue 500GB HDD since 2012, and was in need of a new drive, out of the box the Seagate 1TB was only half the thickness of the WD 500GB and was a bit lighter, not surprising considering the advances seagate has made over the years, drive went in fine. The drive works well and has been a great upgrade for my PC, though one thing that bothers me is it's "head parking" feature that will park the read/write head when nothing is being written to the disk, at times it gives the impression that the HDD is dying it's quite a useless feature in my opinion seeing as it actually will shorten the life of the drive just to save pennies from your power bill. All in all though it's a great drive.

As hard drives grow larger and larger, the one fear I always have is reliability. It was one thing to lose a few hundred gigabytes of information, but something entirely different when you lose a terabyte of photos, movies, games, and other information important to your spouse (hint, hint). I am happy to report that Seagate makes a quality product that has not had any issues since first purchased and installed in our system. Of course, this does not alleviate my need to backup my data on an external system (bigger hint), but I am not concerned that my day-to-day operations will be lost because of faulty technology.A few years back, the hard drive industry was in a race for speed (reported in rotations per minute - RPMs) and size (reported in bytes - MB, GB, TB, etc). While this led to some amazing advertising claims, we really never saw the type of increases that have come recently. Since the first SSD (solid-state drive) was introduced, manufacturers have finally divided their focus - to our benefit. Higher capacities (which do not require amazing speed to read/write) are becoming cheaper and cheaper to acquire in HDDs - while faster loads of the operating system (O/S) and software are being offered by SSDs. Unless your computer is space limited, it is advisable to have both - some things are not better when mixed together.Overall, if you're looking for an affordable high capacity hard drive, then Seagate fits the bill. It is outfitted with a 6Gb/s connector (which, if supported by your motherboard, is adequate for data transfer) and 64MB of on-drive cache - allowing the drive to better handle data transfers, as it spins and finds the data to feed to the system. I have a large collection of movies, games, and photos and still have plenty of room on this drive. I keep my O/S and other software on my SSD - so if/when I decide to finally upgrade from 1TB to the next, bigger drive - I can simply copy the data from this one to the new one - without any other issues. But always remember - as noted before - make off-machine backups of your important data.

A mirrored 1T drive in my NAS was failing and I needed a replacement. This worked perfectly, no installation issues and went RAID the first attempt. Would recommend as a replacement in a mirrored system. Does not come cluttered with somebody's idea of an idiot proof media storage device. Has been running 4 months with no errors and excellent system health. Would recommend at 5 stars but it was a replacement for a 3 year old Seagate drive that failed!

I finally made the switch from my regular logitech membrane keyboard to this new school "mechanical" keyboard. I have been using it for the past 6-7 months and decided to share my experience.The keys feel really strange because it seems as though you have to depress them a far distance down for it to register. You do eventually get use to it though, but you would probably experience some mistyping when using it in the beginning.For me personally I found it much harder to use for gaming compared to a membrane keyboard for the reason mentioned above. This doesn't trouble me too much as I prefer a game pad if I do game.It comes with spare rubberized WASD and Arrow keys for you to switch based on your preference.The build quality from the outside seemed to be good and it does come with a braided cable and also what looks like a gold USB connector.A couple weeks after receiving it, I started having issues with a couple keys, "/" and "Esc" to be specific. It would sometimes require you to slam on it to work or sometimes pressing the key off center worked. After researching it on the net, I realized this was a common problem people experienced with this keyboard. This became a real nuisance when using linux so I decided to open it up and swap the switches around.This requires you to de-solder one of the two pins holding the switch through the back plane on to the PCB. The switch is not a sealed unit so when you pry on it to release it from the back plane, the spring and contacts will go flying off (Goodbye my F7 key!!!).The "switch" consisted of the actuator, a contact switch on one end and another contact on the other which seems to be there for the sole purpose of making the "click" noise or maybe helping keep the actuator in place? I attached some pictures so you can better understand what i am talking about. This is when I realized that the build quality of this unit wasn't that great. The spring is barely held in the center by a tiny little notch on the back plane. It seems that the plague of the non working keys might be related to this. From what I observed it seems as though it is caused by the spring ending up off center as the key will sometimes work if you press it off center. I had to use some rubber grease to keep it in the center and this helped resolve my problem.I got this keyboard on sale for 30 dollars when it's asking price was 60 dollars so I am not that mad about it and I have now gotten use to it even after having to repair it myself. I honestly cannot recommend this unless you get it for really cheap and even then you may have to deal with the same problems I encountered.

Bought this keyboard as a replacement for my other keyboard.Pros:It's nice for gaming and typing.Easy to type, you don't need to put very much pressure on the keysCons:The photo has a black WASD and Arrow Key keycaps, but i did not receive any black ones, only red.Backspace is WAY to small. I had to bind my forward-slash button to backspace also.Keycaps are pretty hard to take off to clean. It takes a lot more force than my last keyboard.

I have had a few of these Rosewill RK-6000 Mechanical keyboards and they seem to be a decent low cost keyboard, but don't expect it to last long. I used them in a work environment typing most of the day and they seem to last less than a year before starting to have issues.

This keyboard is very good for the price point. The keys are crisp and feel good when you click them. The body is weighty and sturdy. My gaming teenager who has a very fancy/expensive mechanical keyboard even says that he really likes the feel of the keyboard. I so want to give it five stars but I just can't. Why in the world did they mess with the standard keyboard layout for the ENTER and backspace keys? I just do not understand it. The backslash/pipe are moved next to the backspace which is half-size (making it normal key size). All of this seems to be done in order to vastly oversize the ENTER key. I am not a gamer. I am coder and moving those few keys around has my right pinky completely lost. Rosewill got a bit too cute on this one.

I got this keyboard when it was on sale. I bought this keyboard because I really want a mechanical keyboard to type on. I mainly use this for school work and playing league of legends. The product came on time (thanks amazon), as soon I open the box, the box was already damaged and the key caps bag was open, but that's okay, as soon I plugged in the keyboard, it worked right away, the computer automatically found the drivers and it was ready to you. It also came with a CD that has a software to set up your macro keys, (I did not install it). Using it for about 3 days, the keyboard is nice for light gaming and some light typing because it can get pretty annoying due to the keys are loud when you're typing. The keys are some what responsive when I was playing league and typing up a word document. Its not up to cherry MX switches performance, if you're wondering . Also, another thing that I did not like about this keyboard was the enter key is over sized while the backspace is the same size as a regular key, that somewhat bothered me. Everything about this keyboard is nice except for its a bit loud when typing and somewhat unresponsive, maybe I got a bad keyboard, this is why I am returning mine.

Experienced a key failing about 70% of the time about a week in of use. I've since ordered a replacement and hoping for the best. I've also read many reviews saying that key's don't last more than a year out. This concerns me as my old plunger keyboard was 5 dollars and lasted 5 years. I'd say buyer beware because of these facts. As long as key's work this is a great product, very solid and study, and not going to break the bank when looking for a mechanical keyboard. If you're looking for the most basic of Mechanical Keyboard's you may want to consider this but I must reiterate that this product has had a history of key's giving out within a year. So it's a gamble.

After watching several Youtube videos, I was still in the doubt of Air vs Liquid. Due to space limitations and to save some money for other components I decided to go with this model that is shorter than most of the Air Coolers in the market. However, it takes a lot of horizontal space and the only way I could install it was on top of the RAM memory slots. Therefore if I need to replace or add more memory I will have to remove the cooler and re-install.Installation on a LGA1151 socket was not difficult but due to the size and weight you have to be very careful during this process to avoid damage on the motherboard. It is important to mention that the package contains lots of hardware to be able to install on different Intel and AMD Sockets so you don't have to worry about compatibility issues for most cases.So far I could not test the performance during OC operation as I could not install the OS yet due to lack of time but I assume it will run some degrees above the most popular Liquid Coolers. If performance is an issue I will write another review.

It was a good CPU cooler fan and heat sink did the cool down CPU quiet & effected... BUT it was huge... I have a ATX Mid Tower 19.20" x 8" x 18.00" almost cannot fit this monster. Just like others review copper pipes pressed tight to the computer's sliding cover... you have think how high you case was to buy this one... My was 8" almost not enough space to fit it... Installation cannot said easy because you need take motherboard out and turn over to install locking device... but it is better design than the stock heat sink with the pin... The instruction of installation in this device they need to rewrite it... it was unclear what really was, you have to guess and try what really was...

I should have done more research on this type of heat sink to understand what I was getting into. The two things that you should consider before buying this heat sink are the width of your tower case and how often you think you might need to access the space around the processor. After installing this in my computer, I discovered that the heat sink's copper pipes jutted too far out and pressed against the inside of my computer's sliding panel. There were times when I had to remove the heat sink to clean the tight spaces of the motherboard, and the heat sink's screws and mounting bracket were always a hassle to remove and reset. Still, it's better than a stock heat sink in terms of keeping the inside of your computer cool and at is reasonably priced.

Bear to put on. Once installed I think it is pretty good. But I had to change motherboards a couple of times and the shine came off after having to keep putting it on then off then on then off. When I was trying to take it off I ended up bending a cpu connector and had to replace the cpu. I replaced this with a more amd typical cooler. Don't take my case as a norm, if you have good dexterity, and aren't going to have to take it off and on...then I think it is an ok device.

The cooler itself looks nice, but the plastic push pins for connecting the mount to the motherboard promptly broke as soon as I applied any pressure. This rendered it un-usable obviously. Return process was easy enough. As much as I hate the mounting design, I've pulled stock Intel heatsink off and on multiple times without a problem or any broken plastic.If buying one of these coolers, definitely grab one with a back plate and screws. The plastic pins are unbelievably cheap.

Edit: Fan grinding after just a few weeks of use. The CPU is still staying cool but I did a lot of work to make sure this system runs fairly silent. The fan itself is causing an ugly grind during initial boot & a softer grind while the PC remains on. I did reseat the fan to ensuire nothing was touching it & it's in fact the fan itself.Excellent product, simple install, amazingly cool. I have a mid range NZXT Phantom tower. I will say that this sink is MASSIVE. It fits in the case but boy is it big! In this case, bigger is better as the cpu has been steadily cool even during stress testing. I am very happy with the results. Great product so far & an amazing price!

It works but it's SOOOO loud. Whenever I play a game I always hear a little sound coming from it. I know it's not damaged because it's been doing it since the beginning and I've run a few tests but still, it's pretty annoying.

Circumstances prevented me from using the drive very much before it was broken. The plastic guard around the connection points broke, leaving exposed pins and no real way of ensuring a secure connection when plugging in a SATA cable. This isn't something that I can have fixed, so I had to discard the drive. I wish the plastic had been a little stronger on mine, but at the end of the day, it's my fault for breaking it. $60 wasted.

Purchased 3 for recent system upgrade that turned in to a "while your at it, might as well" complete new system build.2 drives used as a mirrored system drive and 1 drive as a backup cold spare.After about 2 weeks I started seeing some random system stability issues that quickly progressed.1 drive failed in a little less then 3 weeks of up time.Sending the dead drive back to Seaget for warranty replacement.No data lose! thanks to the RAID implementation on an MSI z95 PC Mate m/b and Intel rapid storage tech software.Recovery was painless it took about 2 hours to rebuild the 0.9 1TB volume with about 180B used. A lot less time and effort if I'd had to rebuild the system volume from scratch.I hadn't enabled "hot plug" in the m/b bios so I had to power down to swap drives.All important files and data are stored on a Qnap NAS. iSCSI volumes are awesome!

Perfect hard drive! Quiet, fast, and well made. It's also thinner than the average 3.5" HDD, which is pretty neat.Only issue, I am one of the few unlucky buyers to receive a defective drive. It keeps randomly powering down and spinning back up in the middle of doing something. And after a few days of that, my pc has gone completely corrupted and no longer useable. Luckily it was bought from amazon so I get a great return service. I will buy another one exactly the same, I trust I just got a rare bad one, which will happen sometimes. Nothing in the world is 100% perfect!

This drive was nice while it lasted. However, it died after about 40 days of intermittent use on my desktop PC.Everything was fine and then one day, I heard this horrible clanking noise.It sounded so bad I had a hard time accepting that it was coming from my PC, I thought it was something outside.I then started getting I/O errors and realized my worst fear: my new HD was toast.I put it in the freezer a few times since that is supposed to help with spindle issues (long enough to recover some data anyways) and managed to recover most of my data to another drive.I am currently in the process of RMAing the drive to Seagate (since it is just outside of Amazon's replacement window).However, I'm probably done with Seagate. I still have the box from my last Seagate that failed.If you look at HD reliability studies, you'll find Seagate is generally the worst.

Installed the Barracuda ST1000DM003 drive bought from Amazon into a Dell Studio XPS PC a couple of days ago. The drive works fine but there is excessive vibrations from the drive case. These vibrations were tranfered to the PC case via the mounting cage. The vibrations can be felt by touching the PC case. Not only it creates a low frequency rumble but also the vibrations are coupled to the desk and can be felt on my Logitech wireless mouse. Move the PC onto the floor, the low frequency rumble can still be heard but at least the tingling vibrations on the desk and mouse are gone. The original older ST32000641AS in the PC does not have this vibrational problem. No reply from Seagate tech support as yet if I had received a defective unit.There is a point of merit for its power management. If the drive is not accessed for sometime, it appears to go into an idle mood and the PC is quiet even the processor, drive C, and graphics card are in used.Received a reply from Seagate Tech Support, they did not address the vibration and noise problem but instead they claimed they have no power management on their drives. Their technical support competence is disappointing!

Purchased this keyboard as my first mechanical keyboard. After some exploration online, the Rosewill seemed like a great option, and used (from a reputable seller) seemed like a good way to save a bit of money. After it's arrival, I was quite satisfied with my keyboard, with one exception: the "X" key is far less responsive than all other keys. I am constantly typing mistakes, not eactly eciting, for eample. After some research online, it seems the only way to fi this involves soldering a new switch! I'm not eager to eplore that option.Used the keyboard for a few weeks so far, finally wanted to write a review because the problem has not gone away and research suggests this will not be an easy problem to fix.(I intentionally did not correct spelling mistakes re the x key, to give a sense of the "error rate" of the key.)

I purchased this as an office keyboard and just received it a few hours before writing this review. They keys feel nice, definitely better than what I expected from such a cheap mechanical. Travel isn't too long and they produce a fairly loud audible click. I personally use Cherry browns on my home keyboard so I can't compare these to Cherry blues, but they feel fine. Far more tactile to the browns.Buyers should be aware that the backspace key is the size of a standard key, rather than the usual double-key size. The left control key is larger than usual at the expense of a standard size Alt key instead of the usual 1.5x size.oThere have been reports of bad reliability over time. Since I have just received this keyboard I can't comment ooooooon that yet, but will update if anything changes on that front. Just be aware that these keys will not last as long as Cherry switches to begin with. Cherry switches are rated for 60 million keypresses and these only advertise 20 million.From my initial impressions this is worth every penny if you are used to using chiclet or membrane keyboards. The sound may be an issue for some, but it's really not that loud. However, after having used more expensive mechanical keyboards if you can afford an extra $30-$40 for actual Cherry switches and extra functionality I would certainly go that route. I simply couldn't justify spending that amount on an office keyboard.UPDATE: After using this keyboard a bit more I have lowered my rating to a 2-stars due to reliability. As many others have had issues with keys being unresponsive or double pressing, I have found one on my keyboard as well. My "8" key frequently is either unresponsive or registers as a double press. Out of 20 presses there were 6 incidents of either a double-press or a non-registering press. This is not related to the keycap as I removed the cap and depressed the switch itself. I will likely be returning this keyboard as this will not do as a work keyboard

This is not the cheapest keyboard I've ever owned, though I think it's the cheapest I've ever paid money for.I'm typing this review on the second of these. The first arrived with a death rattle and a main Enter key that only sometimes worked.Amazon, as always, provided a replacement unit quick as a wink, and this new unit is an improvement, because it's now the left Control key that isn't working reliably rather than the much more often needed Enter key.Key feedback is next to nil, the replacement key tops for the arrow and ASDW keys are problematic to install and lackluster in feel.Now that I've managed to hammer out this review, I will be returning the second unit, as well. It looks neat enough, but between the non standard key configuration (large left Control, large main Enter with tiny backspace and backslash) and lackluster quality, I'll look elsewhere.

Arrived in perfect condition. Love the sound and the feel of the keys.***UPDATE***It is now roughly five months from the time I received my Rosewill RK-6000. It worked great for the first four months. For the past few weeks, the D key and 6 on the number pad have been working intermittently (serious mistakes had I not caught them in the medical records I transcribe). I have tried numerous times uninstalling and reinstalling the keyboard to see if I could get them to work. As this keyboard is used for my at-home job, I cannot send it in for repairs because I would lose my job and have purchased a replacement that is another brand. This keyboard was not worth the price since it only lasted a few months when the keyboard I used before was less than $20 and lasted well over two years before needing to be replaced. I can no longer recommend this keyboard due to it not lasting long enough for the amount paid.

After purchasing the Das Keyboard model S for home use I fell in love with Mechanical Keyboards so I figured I would buy a mechanical for the office. I ended up going with this Rosewill RK-6000 for the low price tag and promise of a solid mechanical feel.The BAD: Upon arrival the space bar was disconnected from the board and dangling. I was able to reconnect it but that wasn't a good first impression of the companies quality control. After using it for 2 weeks I found that the keys were sub par and felt rather spongy which caused mistyping. Although the keys were loud, the clicky sound was a hit or miss with half of the board. The backspace button took a good 5 days to get used to and I still didn't like it. I regretting the purchase and ended up buying another Das Keyboard for the office.The GOOD:The price tag is not bad and I like the braided cord with the gold plated USB. I ended up bringing this keyboard back home and now only use it when I dock my laptop.If you are thinking that this mechanical keyboard will satisfy your clicky craving, you're in for disappointment. Save your money and buy a Das.

Pros:The rubber replacements for WSAD and the arrow-pad are really great and help you find the keys faster than the 'f and j' bumps.The keyboard is in fact mechanical, though I cant confirm whether or not they are Cherry MX Blues (I'm no expert but i know the switches themselves are blue.)Cons:5 days into my purchase, the '4' key doesn't work half the time. When holding down 'D', it loses all functionality. As a semi-pro CSGO player, i need to have the ability to strafe and switch grenades. I can't do that when the '4' key doesn't function.The spacebar is horrendous. The bottom edge is extremely sharp and since there is no wrist-rest, your thumbs will be sitting on that edge for the entirety of your typing.The layout seems to have been made by someone who has never even used a keyboard in their life.Study the layout of this keyboard very well before you purchase it. The god-damned backspace key is the size of a normal key, and they shifted the "\" key up and to the left in order to accommodate for an excessively large enter key.Left control is also oddly shaped, and if you alt-tab a lot, you will have to get used to the fact that you will be pressing the windows key instead of Alt half the time since the space-bar is shifted over slightly.N-Key Rollover. You can press ~5-6 keys with Ctrl and Shift held down.Overall, make sure you understand that the layout of this keyboard is quite different than a normal keyboard with the backspace key being so tiny. This is a VERY big change, though you can get used to it. Be prepared to pay 5 bucks for shipping returns when a key breaks on you within the first week (Unless you have Prime, which in that case its free, thank god).

This cooler has a terrible clamping design. I had to remove my motherboard just to install the brackets; that is major surgery! Once the bracket was installed, I spent 30 minutes trying to clamp the cooler to the motherboard. Not only would the clamp not line up properly to screw in, It was required to remove the fan from the heatsink to install the cooler. The entire installation took 2 hours!!!! Even after the installation, the cooler moves around if you touch it. There was no reason they could not have designed the cooler to use the existing brackets. I had a Corsair H60 and a deepcool air cooler in the past that used the existing brackets and only took 10 minutes to install. These coolers also worked with AMD or Intel. Other than the horrible installation, it seems to cool fine. I would not recommend this cooler due to awful design.

I have been using this heatsink for about a year, purchased it when the stock one broke a plastic tab that held it on. It was never great but better than a broken one. Recently I had to pull it off my CPU to fit in a new ram stick, which is par the course with a lot of these coolers and I noticed the bottom where it meets the cpu has become very rough and bumpy where the heatpipes come across which I can only assume is detrimental to how well it seats against the CPU even with the thermal paste. I do remember these being smooth when first getting it, I'm not sure if dis-forming is to be expected from use or not as I haven't been able to get a non generic answer from coolermaster.

well, long story short. 3 of the 4 plastic retainers broke as soon as i pressed down the black wedge. after that happened i had to find another motherboard with a back plate and use the screws/backing plate after massive modification to ever begin to get the cooler to seat. after that it took about 3 hours to actually clamp the cooler down without cracking the motherboard. the cooler is a retrofit for LGA1366 so it worked, just not easily like you would expect for a cooler. But on the flip side, it does work well.

The contact surface is not flat on the unit that I received, which resulted in poor contact with the CPU lid. After disassembling it back, it was evident by the amount of the thermal grease that the surface was rounded in the across-the-pipes direction. Checking with a ruler confirmed it.The mounting surface is very rough, too, much more so than on other coolers.Running stress tests, the temps went up to 85+C running Prime05 + Furmark at ~120W package power consumption.All in all, this didn't work out for stock Core i7-7700.Wouldn't recommend because of potential poor quality control.

Had to throw away the fan after purchasing the cooler in Oct of 2015. Pretty sad the fan didn't make it a whole two years and disappointed in Cooler Master for making a fan that would begin rattling after moderate use. After looking through other reviews and people's posts on reddit and social media, it looks like I'm not the only one. Really wish I had gotten a different heatsink that had come with a fan that would last me longer.I'm giving the heatsink 2 stars since the heatsink itself is perfectly fine and does a great job even without the fan (just don't stress test it or run anything intense without the fan for longer than 15 minutes).They should work on the quality on the fan for durability's sake in the future.....

I'd like to report a problem with this CPU Cooler and the GIGABYTE GA-Z170X-UD5 (rev. 1.0). This Gigabyte motherboard is one of the more common mobos released in the last year. I have always used the stock Intel cooler, and although that cooler can be frustrating to install, they have always worked and mounted decently. However, I am installing a i7-6700K that requires another cooler.I'm simply going to paste the comments I've made to Cooler Master. Their reply is further below."Hello, and Thank You in Advance for this help. I have a Hyper 212 EVO (RR-212E-20PK-R2) on a GIGABYTE GA-Z170X-UD5 (rev. 1.0)that I am waiting to install. I am concerned that one of the 212 EVO's "feet" (the foot closest to the memory, and away from the edge of the motherboard) is touching solder. In turning the motherboard over, it appears that the solder is possibly for a capacitor or resistor. I have attached pictures to indicate. I don't know if I should: 1. cover the solder with electrical tape 2. use thin rubber washers on all 4 feet. 3. Purchase another cooler. Picture #1 shows the issue. Picture #2 has electrical tape that I have used to cover. Your help is appreciated.CoolerMaster's response was that i should "remove the green tape on the bottom of the backing plate (I don't have any such tape) should insulate any type of shock or sort for the solder points unless it touching an area where there isn't any green tape. If you would like though you can cover it with some anti-shock tape". Obviously, disappointing. No attempt to provide a different "mounting plate", washers, or ??I would suggest that if you have purchased this same motherboard, you will have a problem with this cooler, and should consider another company whose quality control is better. I realize these coolers are designed to be "generic" for various motherboards and processors.

After almost two years, the hard drive is starting to fail. Sometimes, it doesn't show up visible in BIOS, sometimes the PC goes to BSOD and restarts without warning. I can't recommend this when there are other hard drives out there that are less prone to early failure and will last you 4-5 years at the same price point.

I used to love Seagate products, but seems lately they've lost some of their mojo. I will buy brands other than Seagate in the future. Why, you ask? Well I've purchased 4 Seagate 1 TB drives in the past year, and 3 of them have gone bad on me. Don't have the technical skills to tell you exactly what went bad, but I can tell you they went bad, and even though I do keep good backups, I still lost some valuable data. That never makes me a happy camper. I expect hard drives to go bad, that's why I keep backups, just not that many that quickly.

The hard drives that I bought have a faulty chip that does overheat, and that lead to three of my four drives failing to run after two months. One of the drives chips even burned out. I have not used one drive and I can use the other two drives I used, but only on a cooling pad for a notebook computer. I have been in contact with Seagate about this matter. They did not admit to me any problem with the drives. I had one Seagate drive fail on me before. I got a a new controller board for it, and it has been working great for a long time now. I only hope that If I do the same for the one that burned out, and get a controller board that will not have that overheating problem in the chips that the drives I have used have all had.

Bought two of them 3 years ago at NewEggs, put them into ZFS mirror and ran 24x7 (home desktop PC) and they "lived happily ever after and died at the same day" (so lasted for almost 2 years).Next time I bought them here in Aug 2014 (DOM: 06/2014), put into same ZFS mirror 24x7 mode - first one is dead already (so lasted for slightly more than 1 year).I'm very disappointed with a quality and will never recommend Seagate production to anyone, it's a piece of a Chinese crap.Switching to SSD from now.

Bought two of these for use in a RAID 1 (mirror) configuration. One had CC43 firmware the other CC49. After two days of normal operation the CC49 drive showed as failed. Since the system was RAID 1 it continued to function although "degraded." I replaced the "failed" drive with a WD 1TB, the system rebuilt automatically and it has been normal for more than a month. Curiously the "failed" CC49 drive seemed OK as a standalone. Seagate Tech Support said that they do not support drives set up in RAID. Problems with Seagate drives in RAID have been reported elsewhere. Amazon made a full refund when I returned the CC49 drive.

I got a 1 TB drive from Amazon.I'm not sure if I happened to receive a defective unit. When I first installed it, the drive worked well. Then, after about 550 power-on hours (according to the SMART reporting) this drive began to not be recognized consistently on boot ups. Even after booting up, the drive would suddenly stop being recognized and would simply disappear. If I booted up from this drive, the computer would often lock up.A full erase with seatools did not help. And in Seatools (I used the DOS bootable version) it passes the tests! It takes a little while with the computer on to make it drop out.I wondered if the drive was getting too hot, but the other four drives in my case have no issues. I'm hoping that the replacement drive will work better.

So, normally I don't write reviews. That being said, I am only writing this review to let everyone know that you should spend your money elsewhere. I have never used a keyboard as terrible as this one. At first I was quite pleased with the "clicky-ness" of the keyboard, but quickly found out that about half the keys did not respond to keystrokes. God forbid you get auto logged out of any account you have, looking at every stroke of your 16 digit password and smashing keys to find out that you cant re-enter your password. All in all, this keyboard is a bust. Its worth spending the extra money and getting a real mechanical keyboard.

Lasted 6 months then Rosewill didnt have replacement in stock nor were willing to provide a different product. Only partial refund.

I would not recommend for purchase. 10/10/14 I purchased this device. There is a one year warranty. At the one year and two month mark, I started noticing keys no longer working. Attempting to call in at the one year and four month mark to see if I had repair options; I was told I have no avenues for recourse. The model has been discontinued, is out of warranty, and bought through amazon. Rosewill representatives told me that they could not send out a replacement, I offered to pay and was told they can't repair the device. I was then told that they would have more options if I did not purchase through amazon, and that I overpaid. A little silly that to end the call the rep says, oh btw MSRP is $29.99, you paid too much on Amazon.

I really should not be this harsh on the product but it makes it hard to not be. First off, you can really tell the cheap quality of the board when you hold it and type on it. while typing i noticed that the space bar was not pressing all the way down so I took a look under it, after turning the board upside down, a black piece of plastic fell out (oh boy). I was willing to over look that and though hey maybe it was just and extra piece from the factory and the board is ok...wrong.... while playing games, the space bar would not register unless you pressed the dead center. looking online this was due to the poor balances they put in. the final straw was when the balances of the space bar came loose and made it almost impossible to type so i sent it back to amazon. I have a rosewell case and love it so im shocked to have such a bad experience with this board. maybe i was just unlucky but looking at other reviews, i fear im wrong.

Came completely broken. I made sure to install the driver that came with it and the a,s,d,k,l,p,i,u,w,e keys too name a few still didn't work. I also tried to download the drivers off the Rosewill website and that didn't work. I also tried hooking it up to my laptop with the same results. I returned this item and i'm sticking to rubber dome keyboards for now because good mechanical keyboards are like $200. It's sad you can't even get a working mechanical keyboard for less than 50 dollars.

less than 4 months of use the space bar hook broken and I cant use the key board with out space bar...all the materials are of good quality and durable, but may be my bad luck, I got low quality key cap for space bar, and it broke. I hardly use it 2-3 hrs a day for coding purpose while at home (non office hours) ...I considered purchasing key cap for space bar alone, but shipping is very costly...I would be purchasing TVS-e Gold or Matias Quiet Pro Keyboard for PC

Like a lot of coolers now, this one fits on the motherboard with very fragile plastic legs which expand out in the mother board when you push a pin into the leg. This is really a horrible system as they bread easily which leaves you with a half attached cooler to your processor. I had to use screws to attach the mounting plates to the motherboard which worked fine and the only reason this gets one star. Avoid this cooler if you do not have some small screws and nuts to attach the mounting plates - and know you will probably have to remove the motherboard if this is installed to replace another cooler.

Cooler Master 612 Ver 2 doesnt work with the compatibility bracket provided by Cooler master on my AM4 motherboard.The kit they sent do not have the back mounting plate for AM4.The packing department is utterly incompetent. Since i ordered 2 and the screw bolts that is used for securing is of different sizes in both packages.Look at the image, it shows the shorter bolt not reaching screw thread. The other bolt also has the same problem.

It does NOT support ALL AM3+ motherboard. The bracket that LOCKS the cooler is a little large and it will not stay where it supposed to be!Spent one hour and the cooler won! Impossible to install!I have a Gigabyte GA-78LMT-S2PT motherboard.

A design flaw of the anchors makes them prone to failure. When an anchor snaps, the cooler can become tilted, breaking the thermo transfer layer, and may cause over-heating of the processor.

This thing is completely ridiculous to install. It looks cool, but it is a complete and utter nightmare to install. Brackets to the motherboard should be far simpler to mount than this was. I have about 10 - 15 years experience building computers for people and by far this was the most complicated to install. Should not take 2 hours to install a cpu fan and cooler. Instructions could be written out rather than just a picture hoping you understand what to do.

This thing after its installed is very flimsy even after its been screwed down your able to move it back clock wise and counter clock wise, even after the 4 screws have been bottom out. The design of the thing covers your ram and it’s not easy to install. It will take you about a 1hr to figure it out the drawing instructions is not easy to read either.

Seller sold me a drive that advertised as new and had a functioning warranty. Drive failed within 5 months and warranty check via Seagate showed that this was out of warranty. Fraudulent sellers are here, be cautious.

Nine months in and failure. Product description clearly states '2 Year Warranty' yet Seagate warranty check indicates warranty expired. No date that it expired, just that it is. No response from Seagate either. What gives? Purchased the product because of the warranty instead threw away money and now have to cover out of pocket for a new drive. Very disappointed in Amazon and Seagate to be stuck in the middle as a customer and clearly misled on this purchase.

I put it into an enclosure, formatted it, and it hasn't worked since. Only 1 in every 4 computers will even recognize it.

thinking about returning it, I imaged my 5 year old WD disc to it and it just started to have this annoying, non-stopping grinding noise whenever the computer is on... plus the other reviews also alarms me, no one wants to have their system disc fail with important data on it.By the way, I have found seagate discs, when they fail, they fail completely, while other discs you actually can get something out....

I originally purchased 3 1TB drives for a Raid 5 setup. It ran fine for one year and a drive died. I needed my system so I ordered a new one with Prime shipping so I could be running. Needless to say the New drive failed within 2 months. I had already used the one I received back on warranty for a different purpose so once again I ordered one with Prime shipping to have it fail again. This time I am waiting for warranty and one of the originals died, less than 2 years old, leaving me with a raid 5 array without any data. Throughout the failures I originally tried different SATA and power ports thinking this could be an issue and on the last one I switched from onboard RAID to a RAID controller via PCIE to rule out anything onboard. I've dealt with dead hard drives before and it is usually no big deal, it happens. Having 4 in a 3 month period of the same model and from different lots, that's an issue. These will be the last Seagate drives I purchase.

Honestly from inception i had issues withe this drive. firstly, when I got it, it had windows 8 installed on it and well because it wasn't configured for my machine i had to format the drive which btw took a very long time way longer than it should have to format a drive this size. After fighting up with the drive for a couple of hours trying to get it formatted and even recognized by my machine, I was finally able to install my OS. Could be no less than a month the drive went totally bad, slowing down considerably and freezing every program i would try to run on it. Installed a SMART monitoring tool on the machine that indicated that the HDD had been seriously degraded and needed to be changed ASAP to prevent data loss. I honestly dont know if i had just gotten a bad batch or what but my experience with this particular Drive was not a good one AT ALL. I ended up buying a cheaper drive and that worked flawlessly, and being in the Caribbean it would have been a lot of hassle to ship this item back so i just count my losses.