Side by Side Comparison of: DEWALT

I'm very pleased with this saw. Every thing works right out of the box. I'm using it for projects I have around the house so it won't get heavy use but it has everything I need and more. I wanted to be able to cut larger pieces and this does it all. I have made a new swinging door for my shop and a sliding barn door. Both came out great. A few projects coming up are bird houses and feeders, chairs for my grand sons, a room remodel at home.

I set out to find my forever saw, and i think I found it. This saw deserves it's high start review. I didn't realize how bad my old miter saw was until I used this work horse.

She cuts through wood like butter. It is so smooth and accurate. It is so smooth it can make very fine sheets of paper thin wood.

The angles cut feature is very easy to use and you can get the cuts down to fractions of a degree.

I would highly recommend. Only negative is the price

This is my 3rd dewalt miter saw and I'm more pleased every time. This saw cuts great and the light is nice. My only complaint is half of the other miter saws on the market now have the saw bevel lock on the front of the saw. Dewalt are still in the old school ways making you reach to the back to unlock the bevel adjustment. All in all the qualities of the saw are exceptional. I've never had problems with any of the slides on any of the dewalt saws, alot of reviews state they have problems with the slide working smoothly. Keep the saw clean and it everything works great.

This is a great product. I previously owned an older model DeWalt compound sliding miter saw that was not particularly easy to use or accurate.

But the DWS780 is everything I could ask for. I also bought the rolling stand, DWX726, and the two products make a great pair.

This is a serious miter saw for serious work. I am a DYIer, so do not use the saw to its full potential. I bought it only after carefully reading all of the reviews I could find. So far, I have no negatives to report, and have used the saw and stand to complete a finished basement.

Perhaps my favorite feature is the XPS cross-cut alignment feature. It is as accurate as I need and has really made a difference in making sure corners fit properly.

Highly recommend. Would buy again.

I love this saw. The gauges are accurate. The saw is powerful and reasonably quiet. The dual/dual fences work well. The stop adjustment works well. The bevel release is nice, as is the 0-degree recentering stop. Oh, and the XPS positioning LED is AWESOME. Get this... it shines a light downward on the blade from the front of the shield, and the shadow of the blade, and teeth, is how you know where it will cut. So simple, and accurate. I can't believe there are so many "arbor" lasers and such when all that was needed was a good 'ol shadow. A+ DeWalt.

Ok, and the only downside I've found is that I really don't like that it kicks lower into the wood when the trigger is released. Yes, I could set the depth stop so this wouldn't happen... but that's impractical when I'm working fast and making different depth cuts. I'm guessing (but could be wrong!) this does not happen with direct-drive saws, instead of belt driven. The solution is to just be patient and use the depth stop.

Just used this saw for the first time today and I love it. Instructions for putting the stand together were not very clear. There's a lot of very detailed reviews here, so there isn't much I can add that hasn't already been said; but one thing I didn't know until using it is that the rear legs are angled further back than the front ones to provide more stability when pushing stock through the saw. Only used it a few times today, but it was a pleasure to use.Observations so far:power button is little wonky--if you don't hold it in for a moment the saw turns back off.Fence is amazing. I worry that it looks fragile though.Easy to move and setup. Very stable.Seems very powerful. Ripped through 3/4" MDF without a change in pitch from the motor.Update after a couple months' of use: Still love this saw! Had to adjust the fence at one point because the fence lugs were not tightened enough at the factory. It's loud, but powerful. Safety gear is super easy to switch out. Replaced included ripping blade with good general purpose blade and this saw is amazing. Would advise checking the fence, tightening the lugs, and verifying the ruler when you first get the saw.

I went back and forth for quite a while between this saw and the Bosch 4100-09. Cost is essentially a wash between them, and both are well known brands with a lot of fans. I read a lot of internet reviews, watched the videos, and did the comparisons. Essentially, they are even overall, and every advantage in one is offset by an advantage in the other. The final settling factor was simply that I have several DeWalt tools and have been very happy with them, and several Bosch tools and have been mostly happy but have run into a couple of glitches with one circular saw I purchased so I decided to go with my best experiences.I should preface this by saying I am not a pro. I do woodworking as a hobby or for home repairs. I don't have a lot of tolerance for shoddy looking results though, so every tool I buy is the best I can afford to do the job. Accordingly operation and result is primary, but portability and storage options when not in use are important too.Assembly was fairly simple, even though the instructions might be a bit sparse for those without a decent sense of how things fit together. Once together the saw sits at a perfect height, and is very stable. The legs sit fairly wide, adding to support. There was a very slight chip in the corner of one miter channel, but that's it. Otherwise, it arrived in perfect shape. Speaking on the miter gauge/slide, it is made of metal. I read quite a few bad reviews of the plastic unit and apparently DeWalt has listened and changed it. Not overly substantial, but certainly functional. Osbourne, Kreg, and other make more substantial ones if you are so inclined.I haven't done a lot of work on it so consider these initial impressions. The storage on board is very good, with the exception of a spare blade holder. It would be nice, but certainly not a necessity. The blades are actually better stored not stacked on one another anyway, so keeping a few in another location is nothing worth marking off for in my opinion. Everything else has a home. Setting up and taking down is a snap. Levers on the unit mean you don't even have to bend down. Adjustments are easy, and it cuts smoothly. I haven't put it under a severe load yet, but the motor feels very powerful and blade speed is more than up to the challenge of clean cuts.So, early impressions are quite good. I am happy with the purchase and look forward to more projects. Next in line is a Dado blade and throat plate. The only thing I haven't found and would really like is a cover so it will stay a little less dusty in storage between use.

I Love this Table saw! I have always liked Dewalt's Rack and Pinion Fence system on their table saws. I appreciate how easy it is to adjust the fence if it somehow gets knocked out of square. (this was a problem on some of the earlier models of their table saws) I don't own a lot of Dewalt tools, but I feel they really know how to make a jobsite table saw. I'm going to go ahead and get my gripes out of the way now. First of all, the miter gauge is garbage. You might as well throw that away immediately and replace it with an Incra miter gauge. Secondly, for how well they did with all the on board tool storage on this saw, they did not leave anywhere to mount extra blades. I don't know many carpenters that only own one blade and it's always nice to have one right on the saw. Thirdly the stand is nice, but it is not as good as the Bosch or even Ridgid table saw stands. You need more room to set it up than the other stands and it is awkward to move the saw in the set up position. You have to lift the whole thing up even to move it a few inches as the wheels are way off the ground. That being said, the stand is very sturdy even when running long heavy material through the saw. My gripes were small and I don't feel it warrants taking any stars away. I just felt it should be noted so one can be aware when purchasing this saw. There are many great features on this saw (fence and tool storage noted earlier). The ability to rip up to 32 inches to the right side of the blade is awesome! With an outfeed table, ripping a sheet of plywood can now be a 1 person job. It took a little getting used to, but I have come to really like the push button On switch and find myself looking for it when using another person's saw. The dust collection is pretty good, definitely no worse than any other brand jobsite table saw, and it's even better if you add the blade guard with an additional hose. I was worried that the blade would move up or down as there is no lock to keep it from doing so, but I have had absolutely no problems with that and hope it stays that way. Once again this is a great jobsite table saw and I would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a quality table saw with stand. I have used many jobsite saws including the Bosch, Makita, and Ridgid and so far this is my favorite.

I finished assembling the DWE7491RS saw/stand combo today and I'd like to offer up some tips and observations.The booklet for the stand is not very clear on some things and you will find yourself looking back and forth on page 1 which has two illustrations of the assembled stand.One of he things it does not tell you is you are going to need a dead blow hammer (rubber mallet) to mate the stand frame sections together.You will also want a 13mm wrench and a 13mm socket/ratchet. If you don't have any metric tools, wrap some electrical tape or masking tape around the handle of the supplied "mickey mouse" wrench. It will tear you hand up if you don't. Don't loose the Allen wrench that comes with it unless you have a metric set. None of the SAE sizes will fit the bolt heads.As you start assembling the stand legs, handles etc., you will notice that on one side the bolt holes (in the yellow structure) are normal round holes. But one opposite side they are slightly slotted. This allows for tolerance differences during the manufacturing and assembly at the factory. I found that if you install the bolts in the normal round holes first, then the slotted ones the bolts fit better. I tried the other way around first and had a heck of a time getting the bolts into the normal holes. It really doesn't make sense to me but that is the way it is.The two M6-12 pan bolts for assembling the frame halves are labeled "Tool & Frame". All the other labeling on the parts bag are fairly straight forward.When you install the saw onto the stand frame you will find that access to the nuts on the saws front side is difficult due to limited clearances. A thin wrench is the best option.Other saw info:The rip fence is attached to the left side of the saw for shipping/storage. I wish I had taken a picture of it before I removed it as I can't figure out how to re-attach it there (figure 45 and the "how to" on page 14 of the saw manual is useless).If you have magnetic featherboards your out of luck. The top of the saw is cast aluminum.There is a button on top of the cord storage that may be a thermal reset button. There is nothing in the manual about it.The power cord is fairly stiff and seems to be well insulated. However the power cord is rather short so if you are using it at job site you are probably going to need an extension cord.Which brings me to the next subject, power. This saw is rated at 15 amps so one would expect a fairly hefty motor. The one that comes with it seems rather small in size compared to some other motors of equal amperage.The miter slot is standard T-slot.I purchased the DEWALT DW7444 Dado Throat Plate (for DW744 saw) and it fits fine although the dado blade size is probably limited to 8" to 8 1/2" inches in max diameter of about 3/8" wide (or so).I have seen comments that the dado throat plate and the standard throat plate snags wood. There are adjustment screws on both of them and the can be adjusted to be lower than the throat cut-out. Also seen a comment that the dado plate doesn't lock. Yes it does just like the standard throat plate.The quality of the unit seems well made and fairly well engineered. There are some plastic parts that I have concerns about especially if one is actually going to use it daily for construction. I would have given this saw 5 stars but I need to use it more before I rate it that high.Update July 22nd:I finally got around to cutting some wood with the saw and must say I was very wrong about the size of the motor vs. actual power. This baby can flat cut wood. I swapped out the factory blade for a 80 tooth Diablo carbide blade and was ripping through pressure treated 2 x 6's like they were soft butter.I did a an alignment check of the Diablo blade to the miter slot (left side) and it was approximate .1mm off (front to back of same point of blade). I raised the blade all the way up the marked a spot on the blade just behind the carbide tip. With the blade rotated so the marked spot is even with the table top on the front side of the saw I measured the distance from the blade to the edge of the miter slot. I then rotated the blade towards the back of saw until the same marked spot is even with the saw's table top on the back side and made the same measurement.The bevel of the blade to the saw table was dead on from the factory.The exhaust port on the back of the saw fit my ShopVac brand vacuum perfectly.. no adapter need. However, will need something to fit the blade guard exhaust port.Couple of cons though. The miter gauge storage takes a contortionist to get it in and out of the storage location. I have reservations on the longevity of the plastic (rubber?) caps on the bottom of the two legs on the wheel side. You have to rotate the saw on these to erect (and lower) the saw. Abrasive material like concrete will wear them down as you rotate the saw up and down. Already seeing black makes on my floor. In regards to the riving knives. There is one "permanently" mounted to the blade guard and the other one is a stand-alone one that is pre-installed at the factory. The manual (page 9 - figure 27)indicates the the "permanent" one is 2.4mm thick and the stand-alone one is 2.2mm thick for thinner blades. The ones I received with the saw are both the same thickness. The two riving knives are shaped differently so I'm not sure if Dewalt changed the thickness after the manual was printed. Finally issue is there is no apparent locking mechanism hold the blade in the selected height position. The tilt is locked down but not the blade height. I guess it relies on the gear friction to hold it in place (?). I would now make this a 4 & 3/4 star rating if I could.16 Sept 2014 UpdateBeen using the saw for a couple of months now and have some updated observations:- As I noted previously, one will definitely need an extension cord if you are more that a few feet from a power source.- The plastic covering on the legs which one rotates the saw up and down is really taking a beating on raw concrete. Probably will not be an issue for a long time if used on dirt.- The saw is definitely powerful and capable of cutting all of the woods I've used on it (oak, cherry, walnut, birch, pine, and extremely hardened pressure treated pine). I use an 80 tooth tungsten carbide Diablo blade for all my cutting and it works very well with this saw.- After finishing a job, you should remove the blade insert, drop the blade all the way down and vacuum out the blade chamber, especially the cloth material that is used to keep the sawdust out of the motor.The cloth gets imbedded with very fine sawdust powder. As a side note to this, I noticed that when the saw is in the stowed upright position, there is a plastic cover over the saw-blade's aluminum housing. The are holes for screws and threaded mating holes in the housing for these screws. The were no screws in these holes on my saw. However, I did not that the plastic cover plate is easily removable and allows access to the saw blade chamber for cleaning.- Although the saw really kicks a lot of sawdust out the back port with or without a vacuum attached, the enclosure the houses the blade will still accumulate sawdust over time and should be cleaned.- The blade insert is made of aluminum but at the end of the slot, there are two black metal (iron/steel?) plates on each side of the opening. With the high humidity here in east TX they have started to rust. They appear to be clipped in and I think I can remove them and refinish them. Don't know whey they are there and don't seem to serve any purpose that I can see.- I had noted in my review previously that there is no apparent locking mechanism to hold the blade in the desired vertical position. I like to cut wood with a minimum piece of the blade protruding up from the cut. On several occasions, I have observed the blade "slipping" downward just enough that the blade did not cut all the way through the wood. In several instances I was using wood that had been planed smooth on both sides so that they were very straight and level. Since it does not do this all the time, I attribute this to where the two gears that raise/lower the blade sit in relation to the height selected. The fix for me is easy, just set the blade height higher than what I used to use. I don't think this will work well when doing dado cuts.Feb 22, 2015 UpdateHave been using the saw for 8 months now and I've upped my rating from 4 to 5 stars.The blade slipping down issue I noted in my previous update has disappeared. I don't know if I was doing something wrong, but it just flat stays locked in place.I absolutely love the rip fence. It seems to be infinitely adjustable and it locks firmly in place no matter where you set it. More importantly, when you use the lock down lever, it doe not move the fence even a fraction of an inch.I was wrong about using the DEWALT DW7444 Dado Throat Plate. The plate fits and locks into the opening but dado opening is not long enough to accommodate an 8" dado blade. Apparently the bade placement in this saw is located closer to the back of the saw. My fix was to use my band saw and cut the slot all the way open (to the rear of the throat plate). That fixed it. So far I haven't found a factory dado throat plate for this saw. I guess one could buy a blank zero clearance throat plate and cut it open with a dado blade set.If you are looking for an accurate saw that stores in a relative small foot print and is very easy to set up or fold for storage, I would highly recommend this saw. It may not be suitable for making quality furniture pieces, but you could not come any closer in a portable unit.Mar 6, 2014 UpdateWas looking at make a zero clearance throat plate for this saw and found one on Amazon for the DW746 table saw. I knew the dado insert for this saw fits so I thought I'd give it a try. Well low and behold it fits perfectly. In fact there is a sticker on the back of the this throat plate that indicates it will fit the following DeWalt saws: DW744; DW745; DW746; DWE7480; DWE7490X; DWE7491RS; and DWE7499GD. For this saw you have to remove the riving knife (aka: splitter), but I have found a solution if you want to keep it with the this throat plate. Measure how far back from the saw blade's does the riving knife extend (you need to raise the blade up all the way to make this measurement). Follow the instructions on how to setup the new throat plate (including the removal of the the riving knife) and make zero clearance cut in he plate. Next mark the throat plate with a line from the back of the kerf cut that matches the length that you previously measured for the length of the riving knife (including the gap between the back of the blade and the riving knife). With the blade fully extended in the zero clearance slot, turn on the saw and pull the throat plate up and towards you until the length of the marked line is cut. Turn off the saw the, remove the throat plate and re-install the riving knife. Assuming you blade is slightly wider than the riving knife, the slot will be wide enough to re-install the throat plate without any problem.This the the throat plate that Amazon sells: Leecraft DW-2 Zero-Clearance Table Saw Insert for DeWalt Model DW744 and DW746. Here is the link to it in Amazon:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223V9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1FYI: The picture in Amazon depicts it as red colored. It is actually a pale tan color and very well made.Follow up Oct 21, 2016The saw is still going strong and the rubber feet have not worn out yet. No hiccups of any kind and surprised at how stable and accurate the cuts this saw can make. Its nearly equal to a lower end cabinet saw. Maybe better than some on the market?- As to the zero clearance throat insert I previously wrote about I did come across a couple of issues with it. It seems the height adjustment screws are not long enough to properly level the insert. It is only one side were it is lower than the other and not flush to the top of the table. The other issue, for some folks anyway, is there is no locking mechanism to hold it in place.Still can't find a "commercial" dado blade throat insert for this saw. I guess the saw is intended primarily for construction use but it would be nice to make so mortise and tendon joints for rough shelving, and workbenches, etc.July 4, 2017Well its been a little over 3 years since I purchased this saw and I've just ran into my first major issue with it. I needed to make a 45 deg cut on a baseboard so I unlocked the blade from the upright position and titled the blade to 45 deg and locked it. After I complete the cut, I started to unlock the black to return it upright so I could lower the blade for storage. For some reason the locking lever would not move. After try to move it for several minutes I took a rubber mallet and gently tapped on the lever until it finally started to move. I finished moving it to the unlock position by hand. Although the locking lever moved to the unlocked position, the blade in fact did not unlock. My blade is now stuck in the 45 deg position. I'm going to have to figure out how to take the locking mechanism apart and see what the issue is. I'm hoping (best case) that there is a pin in lever that engages the locking mechanism and it is worn or slid out just enough to not engage the lock.

While reviews from professionals may be of more help, I wanted to write up a review from the perspective of a home owner / do it yourselfer. I also had recently sold a bosch 4100 and can give an unbiased comparison. I feel this dewalt 7491RS is the better saw in most respects. I've only recently taken delivey of this saw and will be adding to this review as I get a bit more time in on it. My initial opinion is that Dewalt worked hard at making their 744XRS even better with this 7491RS. Nothing ground breaking but small tweaks everywhere to improve the saw. It works and works well. Assembly was fairly simple. There is an assembly instruction book seperate from the owners manual with about 2 pages of instructions. Tools needed are included however I would recommend a 13mm ratchet and box end wrench, along with some red thread locker. Assume about an hour for the job, including breaking down the box and styrofoam packing. Once built, you will find the stand to be pretty slick. Not as quick as Boschs gravity stand but quite a bit more stable, with the rear splayed legs giving alot of support. We are talking mere seconds longer to set up than the Bosch. If one were basing their purchase solely on the stands, I don't think either design would be a clear winner and I was a huge fan of the gravity rise. Where the Dewalt has it over the Bosch clearly is the wheels. The Dewalt uses semi-pneumatic wheels that will never go flat. Bosch uses standard hand truck wheels that use a tube and will eventually leak on you, guarenteed. I can't figure out why Bosch wold use tube tires on a tool that will be drug through the cast off nails, screws and staples of a construction site. The handle of the stand has a slight bit of adjustment. It can be mounted retracted for a more compact design or extended for easier manuvering and tilting. This isn't a design that can be changed rapidly, needing 4 bolts to be undone and the positions only change by about 3 inches. Still, it's a nice feature that cost almost nothing for Dewalt to add except R&D time. I mounted mine in the extended position as my saw will live mostly in the garage and I valued ease of use over taking up less space. The rack and pinion fence, basically a carryover from the 744XRS, is awesome and I feel loads better than the Bosch. The fence is stored on the left side, tucked under the table. Flip 2 tabs and you can rotate the fence off and mount it on either a small capacity or larger capacity pin mount on the right hand side of the saw. The fence can be moved by either adjusting the knob or pushing the fence with your hand, then it locks securely in place. It's a very nice design. Both Bosch and Dewalt use very light weight fences that feel cheap and toy like to me and this fence is no exception. I have kept up with some reviews online though and the pros that use these tools day in and out don't seem to report any failures. I will edit this review to reflect any problems I have but I am putting trust in Dewalt to design the tool to handle anything I can dish out. The push stick mounts to the fence in a much better spot than the Bosch 4100 (That one is at the rear of the saw, opposite where you stand). It is always at hand should you need it. The fence also has the flip over 2 position bar that acts as a support in the lower position and a short fence for close in work in the upper. Again, it feels cheap but an inspection of the pivoting hardware shows that it is very well engineered. I am very happy with all the onboard storage. Being someone who uses these tools rarely, I'll be using the riving knife almost all the time and the blade guard with anti-kickback pawls any time my work allows it. The pros mostly use only the riving knife but I want the extra safety, simply because I'm not an expert and mistakes happen. The Bosch 4100 has a slight advantage in onboard storage with the exception of the pushstick. This Dewalt will make you duck down to see what you are doing to remove or stow some of the accessories like the riving knife and miter guage. Still, it's great to have everything you need. No blade storage? What's up with that? Surely it can't be an oversight? The miter guage is a true T slot miter guage, though on the low end of the spectrum. It should be fine for what I need. The 4100 used square aluminum tubing with plastic T pieces on the end. Probobly a design that came from an older table that used plain slots and not T slots. The blade case uses a plastic cover over one side that secures to the case with built in plastic clips. It allows easy removal for clean out and quick re-assembly. This is a slightly different design than the 744XRS that used metal pins that could get lost. That design is a little more robust, this design is a little quicker and there are no metal pins to lose. I expect those plastic clips will break over time, probobly a long time for me. It's a cheap and easily replacable part however and not a must have when running the saw. Bosch uses a plastic side case that needs to be screwed on with multiple screws, a much more time consuming design. Dewalt also uses a heavy canvas like material around the blade to seal in the saw dust, yet still be pliable when the blade moves up and down. It appears well made, sturdy, and should last the life of the saw. Bosch also has it over this Dewalt with blade changes, though I may be splitting hairs. Where the Bosch uses it's one wrench and a blade locking lever permenently attached to the motor shaft, the Dewalt uses 2 wrenches. One to hold the motor shaft stationary, the other to loosen the nut. The Dewalts wrenches are stored neatly aboard and come out quickly. The bosch requires you to undo a big wingnut. Both saws use an aluminum table with what I believe is a hard anodizing treatment. The table won't rust however it will start to show wear once the hard anodizing is worn through. This shouldn't be a concern and the table will last the life of the saw, if not longer The motor is wound to produce higher RPMs than the other saws of this catagory. 4800 verses the standard 3650 of other saws. I don't know yet if this is a benefit or just a different spec. The motor does start up nice and smooth and the on/off switch is simple to use. I'll edit this review with more thoughts as I get more time on the saw. I chose this Dewalt over the Bosch for its larger rip capacity, its semi-pneumatic wheels, and it's stability. I am pretty happy with my purchase and don't regret not having the Bosch 4100, though it was a great saw for what I used it for. The Bosch 4100 is an older design and Dewalt has the benefit with this saw of having a number of years to refine it's design of the already excellent 744XRS. I feel this Dewalt is a better design for the money currently, at least until one of the other manufacturers re-design their job site saw. **Updated on Jan. 8, 2014** The blade works well for ripping. My cuts turned out smooth enough to glue thin pieces of ash together straight off the saw. Crosscutting worked ok for rough cutting, leaving some tearout (chipping of the edges of the cut) of the thin ash. You want a different blade if you want a clean finished crosscut though. Perhaps a zero clearance blade plate also. **Updated on Jan. 25, 2014** I was ripping down some 1/2" polar slats to 5/16ths and ran the slats through the machine vertically. They were 2" tall and the saw had no problem at all powering through them. For such a non conventional use of the saw, it worked great. Poplar is fairly soft so this won't be the heaviest work load the saw will see but it shows me the saw has plenty of power.

I'll start with a brief background of this saw (DWE7491RS) and it's fellow mates, the 7480 and the 7490X. These units appear to be late 2013 upgraded replacements to the previously successful 744 and 745 series saws. Upgraded specifications from the previous series are a 4,800RPM no-load blade speed (from 3,850RPM), a larger dust port (2-1/2" vs 2-1/4"), slightly heavier weight and for the 7491, an improved rolling stand system with integrated tool & safety accessory storage. Most interesting to me, the 7490X and 7491RS series feature an improved fence system that has pushed the industry limits of contractor saws past the 24-1/2 inch barrier.Aside from the aforementioned upgrades, most of the other specifications (like cut depths) are identical to the previous 744/745 series. The least expensive model, the 7480, is no longer crippled like the 745 was...even the least model has a 24-1/2" fence to rip sheet goods in half. Both the 7490X and 7491RS can accept dado blades, but Dewalt does now say on the 7480 that dado blades are "not recommended." The new series also seem to carry a heftier price tag at the moment, but the money does seem put to good use. The trusted rack & pinion fence adjustment is still present, so your fence will remain true through heavy use.The new models seem to have similar differentiation as the previous series and the deciding factors are fairly straight forward based on your needs. If you want a basic 24-1/2 rip capacity saw with no stand, the 7480 is your choice. If you want to improve your rip capacity to 28-1/2" and have a stationary (but still portable) integrated stand, the 7490X is your choice. If you want maximum portability in a rolling stand, along with an impressive 32-1/2" rip capacity and a bonus fully integrated system storage, you go with the 7491RS series.Some would say that 24-1/2" rip capacity is all that's needed. It's true that you can rip the short side of a 48" sheet good, but it means you would have a fair amount of material hanging off to the left side of the blade. You can't do it alone, that's pretty well a fact. The improved fence system solves just this problem and provides adequate material support where it's needed. It features two positions for the fence, which can be moved outward to accommodate the large 32-1/2" capacity. The measurement scale accommodates both fence positions with one starting at 0" and the other at 8" and out of the box, it was pretty close to accurate. (See usage update below.) I have noticed that the fence material support bracket is less strong at the maximum distance, but it doesn't seem to make a major difference since it's really only for basic material support.I never used the previous model of rolling stand (744 series), but comparatively I think this one is a bit easier to manipulate from what I saw of YouTube videos. Although the saw and stand are fairly heavy assembled, getting it from storage/rolling position to operating position (and back) is a safe, easy and quick process. It might present a challenge for shorter/lighter folks, but it's easy for me with average height and weight. Once in place, the saw is sturdy as a rock...no problems with movement and it's not side heavy in any particular direction. I also liked that the handle can be positioned in two ways...compact (for tighter storage) and easy-to-carry.Assembly was really quite simple and the instructions/diagrams are clear, it took maybe an hour to assemble and a bit after that to learn the major adjustments and perform blade checks so I could get started. All your common adjustments are found within easy reach and I found that calibration adjustments I wanted to make were quite easy to perform. It's great to have all your safety gear completely integrated into the stand, everything has a place and it's less like for safety gear to be misplaced or unused entirely. The saw features a no-fail recessed power-on button with a large stop that could be easily kneed or kicked in an emergent situation. There's basically no way this thing could inadvertently turn on, but as always, it's best to practice power-off safety when working directly with the blade. The riving knife accessories are super easy to install or remove, which means I'll probably end up using it in most cases!My biggest gripes at the moment are due to a lack of accessories. I've read that the older series dado inserts aren't a 100% match and fit fairly loose in these new saws. Sure enough, Dewalt doesn't list any accessories available for this particular saw as of this moment...so that's probably not a preferred path right now. (Note: As of late 2014, a dado plate is now available, part # DWE7402DI. No infeed or side supports like the 7xx series, though.) You can use a generic adjustable roller stand (or custom built outfeed table) and DIY dado/zero clearance plates in the mean time. I thought about taking away a star for that, but with workable solutions right now, it's not a big deal for me. Also, the provided miter guage is not really practical, but anyone who's semi-serious in outfitting their saw is going to build/buy a decent crosscut sled and a miter sled anyway.Overall, with the increased power and larger fence system, this particular unit is starting to approach cabinet saw capabilities. It's by no means an absolute replacement, but it's certainly more capable than the predecessors and competitors offerings. If you're like me and you want the capacity of a cabinet saw, but the need for storage/portability triumphs above all...then this unit is definitely something you should look at. Yes, it commands the highest price of common portable contractor saws on the market right now, but it's money well spent if the increased fence capacity and refined portability is worth it to you. As they say...buy once, cry once.I'll update this review when I've had a chance to run various materials through it, but initial performance is great. I tried both soft woods (pine, fir) without any incident and I could definitely notice the power upgrade for the hard woods (tried walnut, cherry & QS oak so far). I got nice, clean cuts and quick measurements across the fence were accurate enough for me. As with pretty much any saw, the provided blade is sufficient for rough cuts...but you'll want 60/80 tooth 10" blades for any fine work. I have a couple cabinets to mill down and build in the immediate future, so I'll certainly be putting this saw through a workout of it's advertised capabilities over the next few weeks.Usage update: I've used the saw for quite a few hours now, so I have a pretty good feel for the shortcomings and limitations.* It cuts everything I've thrown at it like butter. I found some 8/4 cherry to try and although it slowed her down more than I'd seen, she chewed through it just fine. I think it could easily take on a 12/4 piece with enough time and patience. I am also loving that large fence and use it more often than I anticipated already...it's been awesome to easily cut larger panels easily. I can only comfortably cut 4'x4' panels on my own, but I did do a 6'x4' panel in two cuts without too much trouble. (One rough, one final.) Anything larger (and especially full sheet cross cuts) and you'll need help or a decent infeed/outfeed system. Do be aware that when you push this saw hard, it will draw more than 15 amps and can trip fuses/breakers that are rated at that level or less. I use a vacuum switch with a 15 amp fuse and it trips when I push it hard...if I didn't have that, my breaker would likely blow.* I mentioned in my original review that the table top was "flat as could be." Well, according to my dial gauge and straight edge, there is a slope of about .015" across the width of the table. This doesn't have any significant impacts as far as I can tell, as long as your blade is 90 degrees (or the desired bevel setting) to that slope. Also, I'm not thrilled with the tabletop or coating. Upon building my panel and cross cut sleds, I found it would fairly easily rub off with even the lightest friction. (It didn't take long at all to get that "used" look.) It's also not at all ferrous, so no attaching magnets...probably to save weight since actual metal is, umm, heavy. Plan on using using clamps if needed to secure things, both regular and miter slot as desired.* Upon a full tune-up/settings check, my fence distance gauge was off by over .015". No big deal and an easy fix, but I was having trouble getting even close to precision for some cuts off the gauge. Also, my fence was off parallel to the miter slot at position 2 by almost .010" front to back. Probably not enough to cause problems with most cuts or rough work, but too much for my preferences. Also an easy fix, but it did take some fussing to get it "just right." The arbor and fence at position 1 were close enough to perfect. It was a little irritating to have to tweak a new saw into perfection, but it wasn't too difficult and is probably due to the primary market for this saw being rough work, not cabinet grade. If you're going for precision, you may need to adjust from the factory. I recommend a quality try or combo square, a shop made fence measuring jig (or an A-Line It jig) and a digital or analog caliper for determining error rates.* I found that my 60+ tooth fine blades require me to remove the dust shroud in order to remove the blade. An inconvenience and it adds about 1 minute to the process, but not that big of a deal unless you're constantly changing blades.* Total dust collection is a mystery until Dewalt does something. At least if you rely on a Shop Vac and 2-1/2" hose. The 2-1/2" port is solid, no problem, and catches most dust. But, a fair bit of dust kicks up as usual...which is why they designed the riving knife with integrated dust chute. Awesome option, but absolutely ludicrous to plumb for at this time, making the accessory virtually worthless. There is no 2-1/2"x1-1/4" Y adapter out there and I'm not going to use 5+ fittings, convert to 4" and add a bunch of extra hose to do it. I find the normal fallout with the regular knife preferable to shooting it six feet across the room.* Some quick things that are hard to find about this saw. It takes up to a 8" sized dado blade, up to 13/16" in width. (I haven't used a 6" dado, but an 8" worked fine...I can imagine a 6" would work with less max depth.) The working table top height is 36-3/8". Maximum storage height is about 44-3/4" with the handle in compact position or just over 48" in easy-carry position. There's a lot of mis-info in the Q&A here and even from the manufacturer, these measurements are from my actual 7491RS saw. Feel free to comment if you want other fairly precise measurements. Accessories for this saw will start rolling out Q1 of 2014, with a dado plate being the first anticipated accessory to roll out from Dewalt.Other than those things, I still think it's an excellent saw. Maybe 4.5 stars would be my actual rating due to the from-the-factory adjustments I had to make and my disappointment with the table top. Other than that, it's been comfortable to use and work with and is giving me great results and perfect joints. I'll update if anything else comes up.

Moved from my Rigid to the Dewalt. Other than the shadow cut line instead of the laser I prefer the Rigid.. The base is larger and most other features seem to equal out. My age and eyesight is the reason I am replacing my Rigid.

Other than mediocre dust collection capability, this is a great saw. All adjustments were perfect, right out of the box. I do wish that Dewalt would improve the dust collection capability and add a soft start feature, then this would definitely be a five-star rated saw.

I bought this saw when DEWALT was running a great promotion where they included a DWX723 stand for free when you bought this saw. Features I really like are the light that shows you exactly where the blade will land on the material and the positive locking at standard angles. What could be better is the slide, which is a bit too resistive when the saw is running. I wish it were more effortless to use the slide.

Overall this is a great saw. Has the feel of a well built tool. The light that shadows the blade is great. I had to make minor adjustments after it was out of the box which was nice. I will chime in on the one improvement that does need to be made and that is the rails for the slide. The saw doesn't slide as smoothly as some of the competitors, but it is still one of the best out there.

Saw had to be adjusted ever so slightly for 0 degree crosscut. Bevel angle was spot on, but the pointers for both had to be tweaked.
I'm a DIYer and used this to frame a deck and make cuts for picture frame decking and railings. Awesome features and cutting capacity. Takes up a considerable amount of space in the rear, which is my only complaint, since I can't fit it on my workbench. I purchased the DWX723 stand (awesome!), and I can set up location where I need it, and this saw can be closed up to a store-able size.

I'm no professional, but the 60T blade it comes with seemed fairly decent. I was able to get clean cuts on some 2x8 boards

Oh and the LED XPS light is awesome!

I have owned this saw for about to and a half years, pretty happy about it. I don't have a problem with a fence, the slots are parallel to the blade, it's sturdy, powerful, well-thought through - you can read other positive reviews to find out more upsides of this model :-)Now, the problems:- As almost everyone else has pointed out the poor quality of miter gauge - hard to accomplish decent results, it's wiggly in a slot, is not very tight. I used it very rarely, yet the plastic broke into pieces. Easy fix - I have replaced it with one of les expensive miter gauges, MITER1000SE, which works like a charm.- The table surface is not flat - I was either too excited when I have got this saw and didn't check for flatness, or it got worse over time. As many reviewers mentioned, there is a dip around blade, 1/16" or more. As a result, I couldn't get perfect miter cuts on a wide stock, unless I use miter sled. And beveled cuts come out a bit burned.I couldn't find any information on whether it is possible to flatten the surface - overall, I like this saw and wouldn't mind getting my hands dirty with some sanding/polishing. So for now, my workarounds are aftermarket miter gauge or cross-cut sled for straight cross cuts, and miter sled for miters. No good solution for beveled cut though yet.

I love this saw and it came to me really fast. Only complaint I have is that certain areas of the table is warped. I kind of leveled it out by putting pressure on the high areas with some body weight. The top is only cast aluminum not cast iron. Other than that it cuts really nice and easy to use.

Love this saw for what it is - a portable job saw. Would give it 5 stars, but the table is not completely flat, and the fence is not completely square (and cannot be adjusted in the vertical axis). But with some patience, you can tweak the set up so that it's good enough for most applications. Just realize that it's not a substitute for a heavier, larger table saw - not really the right tool for building fine furniture :). It is powerful, and light weight, and the stand is well-made, easy and quick to deploy, and easy to roll around - even on somewhat rugged terrain. In my opinion, one of the best - if not the best - portable job saws around.

I had to do ZERO adjustment of blade, or fence settings. 90 and 45 degree stops were on the money. Checked against references I know to be true. Riving knife was dead behind the blade. Miter gage has a little rattle in the slot but delivered accurate 90 and 45 degree cuts. Packaging was excellent. Assembly of stand was simple. Stand is super easy to use and super solid. Included blade cuts very well and should suffice for most jobs. Accessory storage is very good.

I have found this to be a great table saw in terms of its portability and ease of handling to set it up. It cuts very accurately and has great adjustment points to fine tune the rip fence. If you are ripping materials less than an eight of an inch the material will slip under the fence. This can be easily solved though by putting up a board between the fence and the material being ripped.I wished they had put up a geared wheel to cut angles like they did for adjusting the blade height. It is cumbersome the way it is set up now.I am a retired contractor and cabinet builder. For the hobbyist and do it yourself-er and perhaps a trim finish carpenter that needs a job sight saw I would consider this an adequate tool.

I could fault the materials of construction but it is an engineering marvel with a place to store everything. The T-square has too much play in it for a high degree of accuracy. the fence works great. The transportability is exceptional and it is perfect for the construction site. There is adequate accuracy to build cabinets with it.

I have not even used it yet. I give it a one star because the housing cover for the drive belt broke off. All I did was accidentally hit it with my elbow and it snapped off. The belt cover is only held in place by 3 tiny quarter inch screws.I called DeWalt and they only had a 1 year limited warranty on it. I haven't even powered it up. I guess they don't stand by their products. I wouldn't buy this. They only reason you see it on those home improvement shows is because they pay the shows use it. Most experienced and high end contractors go with the German brand, the one with the green label. They they bend over backwards in making you happy. And the engineering is much more superior.UPDATE: DEWALT CUSTOMER CARE REPLACED THE BELT COVER AND SENT IT TO ME WITHIN A WEEK.

It would have a higher rating if there was an easy way to get repairs. On the third time of use, the guard flew off and now cannot be reattached. As far as we can tell, the entire 50 lb saw must be mailed back to manufacturer. Cannot use the saw w/o the guard unless one wants to lose a digit or two!

I make custom furniture for a living and bought the Dewalt DWS780 Sliding Compound Miter Saw for my work in November 2011. For the most part I like this saw. I have not had the difficulties with the sliding mechanism that some others have written about: mine seems just fine to me. I like its power, its depth of cut, and its LED lights that help show where the blade will cut. All are nice features.

I took off two stars because of two serious problems I've had with the saw, both of which are fire hazards.

First the dust collection nozzle is a real problem, in my estimation. We have ours hooked up full time to a Shop Vac that turns on & off with the saw. Yet the nozzle is so narrow, that most dust never gets into it. So we didn't notice when the nozzle itself actually clogged with saw dust. One Friday night, just as I was getting ready to turn off the shop lights and leave for the weekend, I saw a little smoke. Sure enough, the sawdust that clogged that nozzle had started to smolder. It would have certainly ignited into a fire had I not happened to see the smoke.

The second fire hazard was in the motor housing itself. After the dust collector debacle, we just removed the Dewalt nozzle and built our own out of shop vac tubes. It works better. But one day as I engaged the switch to start the blade, I heard a strange noise and happened to see sparks in the motor housing. Sure enough, I checked it several times, and there is a major spark storm happening right in the motor. Needless to say, I'm taking this in TODAY to have it looked at by the Dewalt repair center. Hopefully the fix is not too costly. If it is, I don't know if I'll be willing to risk another Dewalt, or maybe try one of the other sliders.

seems to have resistance when pushing thru the cut should have bought a Makita just didn't want to spend the money now they won't take it back

I like this double-bevel miter saw. It functions smoothly. It is easy to get it at the angle you want and it has no trouble staying there. The lighting mechanism is great.

That said, there are three inconveniences:

(1) This is the biggest inconvenience and it is perhaps a bit unsafe. You can set the saw at various depths from the fence. This is done by a screwing mechanism with a plastic head. I have tightened it as much as possible, but even then, it still somehow loosens up and when sawing a board, the sawing motion will pull the whole saw forward on the depth rail - sometimes instantaneously. If you are trying to only cut a specific distance into the board, this would ruin it for you. Also, if you had your hands in the wrong place (and I do mean the wrong place because they should be nowhere near the cutting area) or you got startled by the immediate movement of the saw, I could see this possibly being dangerous.

(2) The clamp should have some sort of quick lock mechanism on it, where you can move it up and down quickly and then tighten up the last 1/16th of an inch by twisting. Instead you have to slowly twist the entire distance.

(3) The dust collector is pretty worthless. I put the bag on empty two days ago. The bag has stayed pretty much empty, but there has been plenty of dust it could have collected.

This table saw is very well thought out in terms of its features. I had to return two of them however, because the table was not flat. DeWalt needs to beef up the table as I believe that it is warping in shipment and storage. I finally found one that is flat, and it performs well. For some, those minor variations in flatness wouldn't be an issue, but they were for me. If your work must be unflinchingly accurate, save time and by a Grizzly. You'll get a good one first time out.

This saw was such an improvement over my previous saw, I struggle to give it anything under 5 stars, but it has it's faults.Pros:Plenty of power to go through hardwoods as well as not-entirely-dry Fir.Very accurate rail, alignment and cuts. Didn't need adjustment from factory settings for a long while.Very sturdy base that's easy and fast set up and break-down.Well thought out stock accessories (with the exception of the miter gauge) and very good on-tool stowage.Stows away in a somewhat small package.Off switch is knee-operable.Cons:The rack-and-pinion rail system lock can start digging into the outer rail. This will make the rail adjustment handle hard (and eventually impossible) to turn. Once there's been some slight wear, the aluminum dust created by the initial wear can lodge into the lock head and rapidly exacerbate the problem requiring replacement of the outer rail ($27 Part number 5140134-63.) There is no easy way to clean the lock head without removing the rail. See attached picture of a fully seized outer rail.The throat plate lock tends to work it's way loose making it subject to catastrophic failure if the throat plate gets caught in the saw.This miter gauge that comes with the saw is just silly. I bought a Incra MITER1000SE Miter Gauge Special Edition With Telescoping Fence and Dual Flip Shop Stop and threw the stock gauge away first thing.The non-stick painted texture on the table extends into the slots and can cause some binding with wooden rails on sled jigs.You'd think with the list of pretty serious cons the saw would deserve less than 4 stars, but it's such a good job saw otherwise that I can't fault it more than one star.Update:Sawdust continues to find it's way into the front rack-and-pionion break bar raceway causing the rail adjustment knob to become harder and harder to turn with use. This happened regardless of using a vacuum for dust control. I removed the entire clutch mechanism and deburred and polished the front break bar to a mirror finish as well as used a dry lubricant but the issue persists. I might try fashioning a dust boot for the clutch bar area next.

I'm actually very happy with this table. However, the left side of the table is about 1/16 in. lower than the middle and the right side. Too much of a pain to return, so I am just going to live with it.

I finally upgraded old 744 to this 7941RS.I assembled all and adjusting the blade to square to the table. I squared on the left side of the blade and checked the right side... almost a degree off! Did few more times but same result. I said myself NO WAY! So I put a straight edge on the table and guess what! The table was not flat!! It dipped down almost 1/16" toward the blade. I just couldn't believe it! So I took it back to the store and asked them to check out on the other ones they stock. Checked out three saws and they were all out! The guy at the store was so surprised too.I wrote to Dewalt customer service but never got reply. I called them yesterday and told him about this. The guy wasn't helpful at all. All what he said was " just find a saw has a straight table. They are all supposed to be straight". Haha they are not!I went another store and luckily with a very helpful guy there I found one almost straight at 6th saw I checked! Maybe 1/64" out but good enough for me.I've been a long Dewalt lover and love their table saws with the Rack. Pinion fence. But learned this no one's perfect especially theses days that lot of parts are made in overseas. So to all who's gonna buy this saw, CHECK THE TABLE FLATNESS!!

everything was ok except damage to leg, got crushed - and top got scratched probably during shipping

I expected better by Dewalt-- I hated the instructions and assembled everything intuitively; I still have never installed the Anti-kick: the instructions are useless and intuition has failed; i am very frustrated in trying to find a dado throat plate--if you read the reviews for theirs they are mixed

I had to return saw because it was damaged and replaced the saw from another vendor the saw works really good

After carefully taking the time to set this up properly on my Ridgid MSUV I realized there was a problem. The table wobbled around its center pivot. Looking under the table I could see a plastic bushing sticking out. I removed the rails and saw assembly to access under the swivel table and got to where I could see the bushing was broken with no hope of me fixing it. The box the saw came in looked fine. By the time I did all this, reassembled the saw, removed it from the MSUV, and figured out how to repack it for return I was out over three hours. I ended up getting the Ridgid 12" Sliding for a bit more but am very glad I did. Dewalt seems to be lacking quality these days.

I bought this saw to use when installing hardwood floors in our house. I had researched a number of saws and chose the DWS780 because of other reviews, previous experience with Dewalt tools and the shadow line feature.

Reviews of many other saws either disliked either the lack of a laser or inaccuracy of the laser. The shadow line on the DWS780 is phenomenal. Without a doubt, it is my favorite feature. Although difficult to see outdoors, the reviews I read of other saws with lasers had the same difficulty in daylight.

I do have issues with this saw. As with many miter saw designs, you align the blade to 90 degrees and built-in miter detents are preset for 45 degrees. I found that the saw does not cut accurate 45 degree miters and the 45 degree detents are not adjustable. You either have accurate 90 degree cuts or one accurate 45 degree cut.

The other problem I have encountered (although I am not sure if this is a defect with my saw or a problem that would affect many) is that the plastic ring between the upper and lower tables broke within two weeks of use. Before I realized the problem the two metal parts ground together when trying to change the miter setting.

I called Dewalt support and they referred me to my local repair center. The location is 30 miles from me and they expect me to take the saw in for repair and pick it up when completed. 60 miles driving to let them fix their problem! If I could have returned the saw at that point, I would have.

At this point, I am still within the 90 day money back satisfaction guarantee and I may still return it to Dewalt for a refund. I understand that things break, but it would be much easier to send me the broken ring and let me replace it. And I cannot help but wonder if the ring will break again with continued use. I do not intend to drive 60 miles every time a plastic ring breaks.

Overall, I love the shadow line feature. But I am not sure if that is enough for me to keep the saw knowing the problems I have had thus far.

UPDATE: I returned the saw to the local repair center to have the defective plastic ring replaced. They spent about an hour replacing it so that I did not have to leave and return to pick it up. However, before taking the saw in for repair, I noticed a burr on the aluminum base that could have caused the ring to break. I intentionally didn't mention this when I took the saw in because I wanted to see if the repair person would look for causes of the breakage, find the burr and file it down. They did not. While this supposedly voids the warranty if work on the saw, I was able to remove the fence and the single bolt holding the saw to the base and file down the burr.

I was pretty excited to get this saw as I have been mulling over a SCMS for months now. I was originally going to get a 10" and couldn't decide on which one. The Dewalts were always more expensive at the places I was looking so I didn't really give them a second look. Then I saw this one on amazon... a 12" for the same price as some of the other 10" saws I was looking at (makita, bosch) and so I took the plunge. I liked the idea of having the extra capacity, even though I don't really need it. I liked the form factor and weight is great for a 12" saw. BUT....As soon as I got this thing on the bench and started playing with it, I noticed that it just wasn't cutting right. I was getting a LOT of blade deflection, which I suppose is somewhat normal with a 12" blade but this was ridiculous.I thought maybe I just wasn't using it properly so I proceeded to make 20-30 cuts using different techniques and I got to a point where I was making decent cuts with the stock blade. I figured I just needed to get a better blade with a thicker plate and that I needed to get used to the torque of this beast. the head jumps like crazy when you pull the trigger.Funny thing was that usually you'd think that if the blade is deflecting, you slow down your cut right? That actually made it worse. I couldn't figure it out, having tried a couple different blades and having the same problem. I picked up a digital machinist dial and a holder base so I could check blade runouts and do setups on my table saws, so I though that on the 780 and the blade runout was reading in excess of .018"!!! that is crazy!! just to make sure I didn't just have bad blades I took a 10" diablo from my regular miter box. I verified this one only had about .001"-.002" runout on my other saw and then mounted it on the 780 and checked it with the dial. Still running out about .012"!! This is unacceptable for a saw this expensive.More problems still. The slides on this thing are crap. you can oil the hell out of them and they get a bit better so its actually usable but again, on a saw this expensive you shouldn't have to. all the displays at other stores that I played with were the same way. I don't know how people can say that this slides well. The ryobi slider slides better.By the way, the slides on this saw only have roller bearings on the left side. right rail has these two bronze thrust bearings that sit above and below the slide bar. They are cast bronze, porous and not polished. This just kinda dumbfounded me. They do it this way to be able make adjustments to the play in the slide mechanism but there has to be a different way of doing this. The bosch is the same way... it just doesn't make sense to me.other little things that are kinda stupid is that this thing needed a lot of squaring up out of the box. not that big of a deal but everything was just a little bit out of square.The XPS light thing is kinda cool. I like the overall feel of the saw and the bevel locks and miter locks are solid.All in all this saw is being returned and I'm not gonna try another one. I'm gonna take my chances with the makita. At least the makita slides pretty smooth...

I'm going to start with the bad news first. Although I really liked most things about this saw, the slide was unacceptable. It was sticky, rough, noisy, and just generally unacceptable for a high quality, precision tool. I guess if you are just cutting framing lumber, or things that aren't going to be visible, it might still work for you because it the cuts are accurate, just ugly. Even then, I would quickly tire of making cuts with this all day because it takes a lot more pressure to slide the blade through cuts than normal.I tried the slide adjustment screw, but it was already where it needs to be. Any tighter and it wouldn't slide, any looser and it might not be accurate plus it didn't fix the sticky slide. I even took things apart and found out why it doesn't work. Only the left side of the slide has real bearings, and they are factory lubed and sealed, no adjustment possible there. The right side of the slide only has two bronze bushing/bearings that are tightened/loosed by the adjustment screw. It appears to me that the bearings on the left side are either defective or inadequate. I tried out two store models and found the same problem. I'm thinking the bearings are just inadequate.I really hated to return this saw. Actually I was planning to exchange it, but after finding the same problem in the display model, I opted for a refund.If you can live with a sticky slide, here are a few of the good points: it cut square and true right out of the box; it seems to be quieter than average for this type of saw; it is lighter weight and easier to carry than average for a 12" sliding miter saw; and the "Integrated XPS cross cut positioning system" works great. In fact the XPS light is the most innovative and exciting feature I've seen on a tool in quite a while. Basically, how it seems to work is a bright LED light above the blade which casts a shadow of the kerf of the blade. As you bring the blade down, the shadow sharpens and you can see all the teeth in detail on whatever you are cutting. As a plus it also lights up the area you are cutting, so you can see even at night with no other lights on. There is a switch near the main saw trigger switch to turn it on or off. And it runs on AC power through the main cord, so no batteries to change. After a few test cuts to figure out where exactly you want the shadow in relation to your cut mark, you can start making quick, precise cuts.

This table saw is perfect designed but the only problem is the motor lower quality now don't work property I use the table saw for 2 months bearings and axle is not right.

Bench top works well and is easy to move around a store. Only problem is the top is plastic and the right side warped a little bit and is now crooked

I really hate to give negative reviews because I normally take exception to an odd case that a product slippedthrough their QA and ended up in the hands of a buyer. If the buyer is clueless of the abnormal problem anduses it anyway, it probably won't result in any unsafe condition but it will definitely affect the performanceof the product to be able to do its job in a satisfactory manner.This saw is very well designed, with quality parts throughout. Everything fits perfectly and all the controlsand switches are of high quality. However its is the rack & pinion fence that is so ingeniously designed thatlured me into buying one.There are problems though. The deck (table top) of a table saw has to be flat. This saw is NOT and after trying to search for one with a flat deck, it is just impossible.I was really excited when I got one home. After spending a morning assembling it, I started the task offine-tuning the saw.. First thing I did was try to align the blade "square" with the table. That was when theproblem started. After aligning the square on the right hand side of the blade, the left becomes 1 degree off.Then trying to adjust the left hand side, the right side becomes 1 degree off. Then I use a straight long edgeand sure enough there was quite a bit of dip right in the center where the throat plate is. It wouldn't be so badif the table top warps on the side, but right at the center where the throat plate is, is just about the worst place to have a surface that is not flat. The warp table deck makes it impossible to adjust the blade to 90 degrees square with the deck. I'm not talking about 1/1000 " of difference, but rather 1/16" dip.This is a job-site saw and I expect the lower tolerance. However, the flat deck is the number 1 criteriaof a table saw regardless whether it is a job-site saw or a cabinet saw. A warped deck will make any cutout of square and the bigger the piece of lumber, the more important the squareness becomes obvious.I was really scratching my head here because based on other reviews posted a couple of years ago, the problemwas well documented and all along, this hasn't been corrected. I bought the saw thinking obviously the problemhas since been corrected and I was wrong. My saw has a serial number that was manufactured in 2016 andbased on other reviews a few years ago, the warp deck has already given grief to quite a few owners.As well thought out and designed this saw is, and the high quality of the components used, how in the worldcould it come with a warped deck. The deck is made of cast aluminum. Either the thermal expansion andthe control process were inadequate when they poured the molten aluminum during casting, or they didn'teven bother to machine the tabletop to ensure flatness. In fact, based on deck surface, there were signs ofrough machining, but barely enough to take out the warpage. I paid close to $600 for this saw and expectthe deck to be at least be true and flat, not like a taco that warps between the left, center and right of the deck.After wasting time and money, other than returning it I just can't see any option of tweeking or fine-tuning it.After several years of reporting this problem, the problem still exists and based on history, they nevercorrected this flaw.Update on 8/6/2016.I at first thought the warp table on my saw is a fluke and ended up in my hands. However, after exchanging 3Dewalt table saws (in 3 different locations, separated by different counties here in the bay area), the thirdone is going back as well. Either the positive reviewers here are unaware of this problem, or I'm theunluckiest person to experience such a flaw on all 3 saws. Dewalt can't blame me for not trying andgiving the benefit of doubt by taking to the task of going through 3 saws and they are all blatantlyhaving a table top that is warped like a taco. It was a lengthy laborious task to haul it from the storeto home, set it up, fine-tuning it, discovering the same issue of the warp deck, disassembling them,pack it back into the box, load it up onto the pickup, hauling it back to the store, go to another location, get another one.........and repeat the entire ordeal 3 times in a roll. The final conclusion is thatIT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO GET A DEWALT TABLE SAW (this model at least) WITH A FLAT TABLE TOP.It seems you would have a better chance getting a flat tabletop saw at Harbor Freight than trying tofind a Dewalt with a flat table. A lot of reviewers here reported a warped deck. This problem is very true. A table saw with a warped deck is as good as a car that couldn't be driven straight. Why do we useplaners and jointers to flattening warp boards and then trying to feed it through a table saw with awarp deck.Update : 8/20/2006I figured that I would give Dewalt one last chance and order another one. This time I got it from Amazon. Fourth time is a charm I guess. Due to past bad experience, I examined the table top first before continuing to assemble it. While the table is still not entirely flat, but at least it is not at the center where the throat plate is. I figured I can live with it and continue assembling the rolling stand and encountered another problem. A bag of bolts and the plastic handles are missing. Called Dewalt and they are quite nice in shipping the parts to me asap. The bolts and handle arrived a few days later and I started putting it together.This table saw required quite a bit of fine-tuning. The 90 degrees bevel was off, which was easily corrected. The saw blade was not parallel to the miter slot after measuring it with a jig that I build with a dial indicator. The fence was not parallel to the blade or the miter slot also. The riving knife was not in-line with the blade. It took me an entire morning to get it dialed in. Then I started testing it with some scrap lumber. I couldn't make a straight cut. I checked and re-checked everything to find out where the problem was and was getting quite frustrated. I finally found out the problem was the fence. There is a bow on the fence and and that explained why I was not getting a straight cut.I called Dewalt again and talked to a nice lady. I explained what I went through in trying to get a good table saw and because of the bowed fence, I'm afraid that she might ask me to return the whole thing again. To my surprise she looked up my record and found the the history of the missing bolts and told me to hold while she check to see if there was a fence in stock. Came back in about 30 seconds and told me it will be shipped out to me asap. She also told me that there is no need to return the bad fence.I must say Dewalt's customer support deserve credit for stepping up to the plate. I'll give further updates after receiving the new fence to see how things are working out. At this point, my review is that the table saw is very well designed. The rack and pinion fence is a killer feature. The components used are of good quality. What is missing is the quality control. I've exchanged a few saws before I ended up having an acceptable and functional one. It is very frustrating finding out that the table is warped after all that working assembling it and then have to take it apart to ship it back. It is not acceptable, especially a warped table that has been reported more than a few instances and all this time it still hasn't been corrected.

Fence issues. The aluminum fence just isn't thick enough or sturdy enough. I've discovered that mine has a 0.007 dip in the middle, which causes burning and pinching. The riving knife adjustment screws are extremely difficult to reach and adjust. I'm not sure that one even works. Power is not an issue and the stand is nice, but fence issues should be rectified.

After assembling the stand and attaching the saw to the stand I went about learning how the DWE749 fence and guard assembly works and how to store them. So far so good. Then I went check the blade setting at 0 degrees. Big problem, the table is not flat. It is useless to me with this defect. I can't see any visible damage so I am assuming it is a factory defect. Very disappointed. Now I have to spend time dealing with getting this resolved. Not how I wanted to be spending my time.

Saw has some great features. The rack and pinion fence is fantastic. It gives accurate cuts and allows precise positioning. So much so that with a bit of patience, you can use it for accurate dado cuts. Tool free riving knife change is great. Stand is great. Off switch is great. But the table isn't flat. Not even close to flat. Off by nearly a quarter inch when using a straight edge. Sure it's a jobsite saw, but given how nice everything else is, for the table top to be giving inaccurate cuts is extremely disappointing. In fact, the ridge across the table is so great that when moving the rip fence across it, it will bump and drag itself over the table. And speaking of inaccurate cuts, the miter gauge is as bad as the cheapest table saw's miter gauge you could ever find. If you can get by with cuts being off by a few degrees than it will do the job, but again, what a let down. I even purchased an Incra 1000HD miter gauge, and while it made it tigher, it never got any where close to snug when fully tightened. The miter slot is simply too wide. Additionally, the screws holding the blade guard under the table were missing. Instead it was held on by just a plastic clip. Given that this saw is supposed to be able to go up and down stairs, that seems like a major safety issue. Amazon for their part have been very responsive to my issues so at least they get 5 stars for their support. A saw like this isn't going to be a cabinet saw quality, but you are certainly paying for it to be more than entry level saw quality. Unfortunately, with these flaws, even as a job site saw, there are better alternatives out there for same if not less price (Bosch, Rigid).

Be aware. This saw does not come with a stand as it says it does. Lowes is a few dollars more but it comes with $199 stand free

I was eager to get started on a cabinetry project, and after much research and after reading countless online reviews, I decided to go with DeWalt's top-of-the-line miter saw DWS780. A local Home Depot had one in stock, so off I went.Upon unpacking and setting it up, and after reading the manual, I've decided to get started. To my surprise, I quickly realized that the saw was so badly misaligned that it begun to cut into the kerf plate (see photo).I read through the manual again to see if there's an adjustment to be made, all to no avail. Upon e-mailing DeWalt's customer support, I was told to take (or ship) the unit to a repair center.Not exactly the sort of experience I was expecting after just shelling $600 for a top-of-the-line miter saw. Thank goodness for Home Depot's easy returns. I must say that over the years, DeWalt's quality control has nosedived. For a precision cutter such as this to leave the factory floor is truly unfortunate.

Advertisement says free stand included, but no stand received

I sent the original saw I ordered back as it had black magic marker writing on the bottom of the saw. I called the Dewalt company directly and they said no new saw should have any hand writing at all on the bottom in marker or anything else. They could not explain why this happened and suggested I may want to send that saw back. To me, the writing seems like an internal control procedure when someone returns a saw to them when uphappy or what have you, then they mark it to be refurbished/reinspected. In this regard, I believe, the saw was a refurbished saw I received. They saw I received in return had green marker writing on the bottom. I am skeptical I received a brand new saw either time. If I had and was sure that I had I would be very happy. I am hoping someone is not trying to pull a fast one. Out side of this experience I have never had an issue ordering from Amazon. The saw comes from Amazon, LLC so maybe not exactly the same company.

Ok a little background on who I am and what I do. I am not a weekend carpenter or a DYI'er. I am a finish carpenter by trade and do this everyday. It supports me and my family and is not just a hobby.I bought this saw a couple of years ago and posted a 4 star review initially after using it for about a week or so. The new light system on it was really awesome when aligning the blade/cut. It was fairly light for a 12" saw and with my Forest Chopmaster blade the cuts were amazing.This saw would be pretty kick a*s if they could change one thing on it....the linear bearings on the slide. Mine was nearly impossible to make a slide cut with the blade down in the cut position. When I first used it almost every cut I made was a chop (casing some windows, crown on some cabinets). Then I got into a set of stairs where I was cutting, or trying to cut, skirt boards. Holy crap. I thought something was wrong with my blade but when I made the cutting motion with no material on the saw it was the same deal. The saw apparently only has bearings on the right hand tube (I have read this). When you lower the head it torgues the crap out of the slides making it difficult to slide. This is just plain old stupid IMO. How much would it cost to improve the bearings on this saw?? Anyway, Dewalt hasn't made a good slide saw since the old DW706 or 708 (the one with the slides stacked vertically on top of each other). That saw was awesome. No gimmicks. Just a good strong saw that cut accurately. Should have never sold mine. I replaced with the 718 which was an absolute joke as far as a finish saw. I sold it to a framer and warned him of the saws limitations. That saw would cut perfectly square until you tried to make a long bevel cut (example was trimming my personal home with 7 1/2" base). When you beveled the saw either left or right, it would throw it out of square almost 2 degrees (this equaled about 1/4" on 7 1/2 material).Anyway, I returned the saw and have no intentions of buying another Dewalt product (of any kind) until they can get a slide saw out that will perform. I'm sure someone is going to ask what I ended up with...I own 2) Hitachi C10FSH saws and also a Festool Kapex (I had 2 of them until some thief decided I didn't need it any longer). I am currently using the Hitachi while the Kapex rests on the shelf for nearly 3 months now. Hope this review helps and I welcome your comments or questions.

this saw does not even deserve a star. this is by far the cheapest and worst made miter saw i have ever seen. slides very hard and it is impossible to work with. i am defiantly returning it. big disappointment. among other things, the bevel stops wobble a lot and setting the 22.5 and 33.9 bevel is very inaccurate.

Was really surprised at the shoddy factory work (see photo). I was attempting to set up the table saw stand and was only on step two (to attach the axle to the end bracket by aligning the pre-drilled holes), when I discovered that I would have to practically strip the threads off the carriage bolts because the fit was so tight. The holes weren't properly centered (the photo shows the axle, which i gaffer-taped next to the holes to show the problem). Curious, I began looking over the end bracket and found on the right side (see photo) someone apparently had slopped all the holes 1/8 inch wider to the left to compensate for mismeasuring their original location, I presume (there is no logical reason to create a wide hole for a bolt to secure a load-bearing axle). I've done plenty of household projects and am familiar with this kind of slopping-the-hole-bigger shortcut, as I've had to do it with my drill once or twice; I'm surprised however to find it on a well-reviewed $500 table saw. I'm following up with DeWalt about a replacement and will update this review based on what I find out from them. Not impressed!

First: I -love- this saw. I've now had it for 2.5 years. The fence is fabulous, the folding rolling stand is lovely, the storage for most of the tooling onboard is great. This would normally be a 5 star review (maybe 4, blade storage would be nice, and I wish the miter sled storage were more accessible, it's not a great place to park during use..)Sadly, the surface coating is absolute garbage. Around the 1 year mark of homeowner use in florida, the surface coating started coming off. This leaves a rough surface (seems like maybe a magnesium like substrate with the way it seems shred/crumby) instead of a smooth surface. This hasn't gotten any better, and now there are a half dozen or more areas with the coating coming off. It's worse in the high-traffic areas around the blade, but virtually untouched areas (like the far right of the table, where I only use it for extreme width rips, which isn't often) see the same problem.My guess would be poor surface prep at the factory before coatings applied - but abrasion from use definitely makes this worse.I contacted dewalt about it, but their only answer was to take or ship it to a service center. I've have been happy with an acknowledgement of the problem and a replacement top to install (and a shipping box and label to return the old top) - but driving a few hours each way (twice) to take it to a service center would be more expensive than just buying a new one factoring in the time lost working.So as much as I otherwise love this saw - when it gets so bad I can't use it anymore, I'll be replacing it with an aluminum topped saw from the competition.

I've bought the saw in local store, it took for me about an hour to figure out how to assemble and to put together the product. However I was very upset that after further inspection I found that one side of the table was sagged about 1/8" - it is a huge out-of-flat defect and if DeWalt has at least some kind of quality control, the unit like this shouldn't leave factory gates. I had to go to store for exchange but could someone imagine my frustration that the new unit has similar defect only this time the center part of the table is noticeably raised above other surface. Really? Now I think that my problems describe the common DeWalt trend of ignoring quality of their products in sake of profit.

Dunno how it works as a saw. I do know the table top arrived bowed - approx. 1/16th" at one side and ~1/32nd" at the other. The machine is thus completely useless except as an expensive boat anchor. The point of buying a $600 table saw was to get a better cut than my $99 version - this is nowhere near as good as my cheap saw.Now I am supposed to box it up (an enormously difficult task in itself because how tightly it is packed), somehow pick up a 110lb 4' x 3' x 3' box (with weak cardboard that tears if you use the included handles) on my own to put it into my vehicle, drive to the nearest store (an hour round trip), somehow get a 110lb 4' x 3' x 3' box out of the vehicle, lug it into the store, wait in line to return it, then presumably wait while another one is shipped to me (the local store has none of these in stock).'Assembled in America' apparently means 'Make parts in the same poor quality Chinese sweatshop as the machines that are Made in China, ship to the USA, do no QC on said parts, assemble in the US, ship out with no QC on finished product'.I have three other Dewalt tools. There won't be a fourth after buying this extremely expensive boat anchor. Going back to my far, far superior $99 table saw.

I cannot believe how this got through quality control. The blade would not square up to the miter slots.The miter slots were not parallel, 1/16" out. The fence was 1/4" out and also leaned in about 1/8" at the top. The outfeed end the of fence had plastic sticking past it making it dangerous and unuseable. The table dipped in toward the blade. The front left end of table was 1/4" down. UNREAL. Never plugged it in. The call to Dewalt was a waste of time. As soon as he heard it came from Amazon, He knew that they would make it right. And they did. Mike G.amazon customer service went above and beyond. I've never had problems with amazon. If you make this purchase, check the saw before you mount it to the stand. Also take pictures so you can get it back in the box.

This is a qualified review because the jury is still out on this one. I opened the box and started the rolling stand assembly and literally the very first screw had a messed up threaded hole. After a less than consumer-friendly response (my first experience with customer service re: a DeWalt tool), I checked if there was a factory certified warranty replacement center nearby and there was not. The good news is they only required I return the stand assembly, which they "would inspect and determine the problem..." Really? Okay, that return was sent 1/28/16 via UPS and received but them on 2/3/16. So far, not a word from DeWalt (aka Stanley Black & Decker). I told their representative on the phone I was in the middle of reconstruction and needed a prompt replacement. Not looking very positive so far. Will update.